The image below shows a high end space using recycled, low end pallets in a most fabulous way. This may very well be the most inexpensive, high style storage solution for this particular use, I have seen yet. The only unfortunate part of this, is that for many of us, these inexpensive or free, recycled pallets, are anything but. In California, you would be hard pressed, or very lucky to get your hands on a few of these…so, if you're like me, and you can't join them…beat em' and fake it!
This plan is for quick and easy project that can be created from scraps left over from other projects or from a few inexpensively purchased boards, and can be altered to suit any scraps or boards you have on hand. Get yourself an inexpensive set of stencils (Dollar Store, Grocery Store or WalMart and typically sold for teachers or kids making poster board projects), and a couple of small bottles of craft paint to give yourself some authentic looking pallet markings and to highlight the nicks and gouges you will be creating if you want to weather and age your piece.
- Tape Measure
- Hammer and other Gouging/Banging Devices
- 1 – 1×3 at 10' (can also be a 1×4 or a combination of 1×3 and 1×2 for the sides)
- 1 – 2×2 at 6'
- 1 – 1×10 at 36″ (can also use ply if you have that on hand)
1 1/2″ Wood Screws or Nails
Black, Gray, Light Green or Light Blue, Reddish Brown Craft Paint
Paint Brush for aging (something simple like a 1 1/2″ brush will be perfect, and a brush you can use to stencil letters and numbers (can be same brush or a stippling brush)
2 – 1×3 at 18 1/2″ Front and Back Boards
2 – 1×3 at 9 1/4″ Sides
4 – 2×2 at 7 1/2″ Legs
1 – 1×10 at 17″ Bottom
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Begin by Beating or Marking your boards, be sure to avoid a pattern that will look contrived.
Use your hammer, drill even screws and nails will do the job and be sure to do more markings on some boards than others. Less is more here, but some is a definite necessity.
Sand any rough edges and round a few edges or corners here and there using your sander. Create the look or worn and handled often.
Leave any stampings or markings that come on your boards as these will suit or purposes well and should be placed in prominent locations whenever possible! Holding your brush in one hand and board in the other, be sure to turn over on end and cover every side and edge of each board. If you use some of your boards as drying boards or as a place to set your board while painting then you will end up with a few random markings you wouldn't be able to as easily reproduce in your attempt to be random.
Go slow, start with less and build and layer your finish. This type of finish doesn't lend itself to sanding for correction without sanding down quite a bit and beginning again…but just know you can always do that if you need!
Using your stencils and black craft paint, create a seemingly random pattern of letters or numbers to lend to the idea that this was used for commercial purposes and marked for inventory or tracking.
Use a stippling or pouncing motion with your stencils and a very small amount of paint so that you don't get seepage under your stencil.
Once you have your stenciling done and it has dried completely, you will want to gently sand over the painted surfaces to create some wearing. Be very very gentle when doing this so that you still retain the stenciling and don't worry if it doesn't look worn enough after a bit of sanding..you will take care of that with paint in the next steps!
Using the leftover paint on your brush from stenciling, dry brush on your boards with the black. If you need to reload with paint, just be sure to wipe away excess so you are truly brushing with a very light small amount.
Clean out your brush and dry excess wetness while leaving a bit of dampness on your brush. This will help it to have more of a wash affect rather than a paint affect which is what we are looking for in this project.
Using your light gray paint, mix in a touch of blue or green and with a very small amount on your brush, cover the surface, sides, and edges of each board. You want this to be fairly washed down so that you aren't painting a solid color but gently sweeping a gray aged color onto your boards.
Now you will want to create an actual wash, with one small drop of reddish brown and a brush full of water mixed very well and very wet. Lightly wash this over the entire surface of every board, paying special attention to really coat those areas where you may have an excess of color from the previous step. Again maintain a random patter of more or less of the wash, but be sure to hit every area with this. You can see in the images below how water mine was on the plate.
Once your finish has dried you will build this baby!
Using your Drill or Hammer Attach 2×2's in the corners to the bottom board. They will sit flush with the outside edges directly on the corners.
Leave no more than 1/2″ between the top of the bottom board and the bottom of the sides, back and front.
Attach your surrounding sides, back and front to the Legs and each other using screws or nails.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.