I am so excited to bring you our very first ever, reader submitted, Full set of Furniture Plans! This project was brought to us by Loren, who I know you all will adore for her absolutely fine example of craftsmanship!
- Tape Measure
- Kreg Jig – this is optional but will make some of your connections much much easier…recommended.
- Saw – Optional if you have your local lumber supply cut your boards.
- Jig Saw, Table Saw – to create notches in the shelves.
- Miter Saw – or either of the 2 above tools will also work for cutting at an angle.
- 1 – 1×10 at 8’ OR 1 – 1×10 at 10’ OR 2 – 1×10 at 6’– you can fit all 4 shelves on one board if you don’t mind having each shelf be a hair shorter than the plans call for. Won’t be an issue structurally.
- 3 – 1×2 at 8'
- **1 – 1×6 at 6’ – optional for adding a lower backing board, perfect for hooks that hang hand towels or decorative items.
- 2″ Wood Screws
- 1 1/4” Pocket Hole Screws
- 3” Drywall Screws
- Wood Glue
- Wood Filler
- Sanding Supplies
- Finishing Supplies
- 2 – 1×2 at 39 1/2″ Back Legs
- 2 – 1×2 at 32 1/4″ Front Legs
- 4 – 1×10 at 24” Shelves
- 10 – 1×2 at 7 3/4” Rails
- 4 – 1×2 at 19” Cleats
- 6 – 1×2 at 12” Diagonal Rails
- 2 – 1×2 at 11” Lower Diagonal Rails
**1 – 1×6 at 19” – optional for a lower back board for hanging hooks to use for hand towels… or some other fun thing!
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Build your Leg Units: Space the Rails accordingly and use your pocket hole system to secure, set for 3/4” stock with 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. If you aren’t using a pocket hole system, you can fasten the rails to the front and back legs using your 2” screws and glue. Be sure to countersink.
Build your Shelves: notch out 4 rectangles to allow for the legs to rest flush with the front of the shelf. These will sit 1” in from the sides of each shelf, and will be 3/4” x 1 1/2” allowing for the true dimension of a 1×2 board. Do this carefully and use a jig saw or table saw for this step. Once you have each section notched out, you will set the shelves on the existing rails and fasten in place using glue and 2” screws if you prefer, though you will be sandwiching the shelves in place with the future addition of upper rails and so securing with screws isn’t entirely necessary, but totally acceptable.
Fasten the Cleats in Place: use your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue to fasten the cleats in place, just below each shelf. This will be how you fasten the unit to the wall when you are finished with this project. If you aren’t using a pocket hole system you will need to secure the cleats by screwing through the legs using 3” screws and glue, and this isn’t my recommended solution here, but is possible if necessary.
Fasten your additional Rails in Place: use 2” screws and glue to fasten them in place or a pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws. The diagonal rails will all be cut at a 45 degree angle and should be sized according to exact measurement (as in measure and mark your precise length required). My plans suggest you will come in right around 11 9/64” at the longest point on the diagonal rails. Note: the lower diagonal rails are shorter than the upper diagonal rails.
You can finish at this step, or you can continue on to attach a backing board under the bottom shelf using a 1×6 at 19” and your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue to attach. This would be a fabulous place to add decorative hooks for hanging hand towels, or decorative accents for the bath! Fill any screws holes with wood filler, sand, and touch up or finish as desired!
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.