Have you always wanted to have the Kitchen of Your Dreams, but didn't think you could? Too expensive? Not a DIY project you feel comfortable handling? Say no more… On we march through our Dream Kitchen Series with an Open Shelving Wall Cabinet. We will continue with additional wall and base cabinet systems, and a few other specialty items…stay tuned for those.
We have already completed the Base Cabinet, Wall Cabinet and Pantry plans as well as a door and drawer styling for a Farmhouse look. We are on our way now and it won't be long till we have our dream kitchen completed with many options for decorative touches and styles. Pick and choose till your heart's content. This is a standard Wall Cabinet height so it shouldn't be difficult to work into your kitchen in just the way your mind imagines. This would also be fabulous storage in a home office or any other are you need additional shelving. Open shelving is fast becoming a staple in kitchen design… I have provided for space at the top of this cabinet to accommodate crown molding should you desire that and given the piece a bit of extra face frame space to account for that.
- Tape Measure
- **Kreg Jig – optional, can be done without…but honestly not sure why you would want to. This tool simplifies the building process exponentially.
- ** Finish nail gun – optional, but will make the process faster and easier especially if you are working on an entire kitchen!
- 1/2 sheet- 3/4″ Plywood (a lower grade is fine).
- 1/2 sheet – 1/2″ Plywood (a lower grade is fine)
- 1 sheet – 1/4″ Plywood (this will be showing on the sides of outside cabinets).
- 2 – 1×2 at 8'
- 1 – 1×3 at 8'
- **Kreg Jig Owners:
- 1″ Pocket Hole Screws,
- 1 1/4″ PHS 1 1/4″ Screws (not necessary if you are using Kreg Jig)
- 5/8″ Screws
- 2″ Finish Nails
- 3″ drywall screws or wall dog anchors
- Wood Glue
- Wood Filler
- Sandpaper Finishing Supplies
- 2 – 1/4″ Ply at 30″ x 11 1/4″ Outside Panels
- 1 – 1/4″ Ply at 29 1/2″ x 30″ Back
- 2 – 1/2″ Ply at 1 3/4″ x 10 7/8″ Lower Interior Panels
- 4 – 1/2″ Ply at 13″ x 10 7/8″ Inside Upper and Middle Interior Panels
- 3 – 3/4″ Ply at 10 7/8″ x 29 1/2″ Bottom, Middle, Top Shelves
- 2 – 1×2 at 29 1/2″ Cleats
- 2 – 1×2 at 30″ Sides of Face Frame (Stiles)
- 1 – 1×2 at 27″ Middle Face Frame Rail
- 2 – 1×3 at 27″ Top and Bottom Face Frame Rails
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut your Side Panels to size as indicated in the diagram below.
We will begin constructing the interior panels: I have made this so easy for you in the way I have designed this. You don't need a table saw to create Dadoes, or a stopper on your drill for Shelf Bracket holes…it's just plain easy. Cut your interior panel pieces to size (this will be mirrored on the opposite side) and attach as outlined to the outside panels. Use 5/8″ Screws to fasten panels together. **If you aren't using a Kreg Jig to construct this cabinet, you should skip to the next step prior to attaching the outside panels to the interior panels. Attach your cleats to the interior panels first then fasten the interior and outside panels together.
Attach the cleats to the interior panels. This is how you will ultimately attach your cabinet to the wall using your dry wall screws. Use your Kreg set for 1/2″ stock and your 1″ PHS. If you aren't using a Kreg Jig, you will complete this step prior to fastening the interior panels to the outside panels.
Attach the Top, Bottom, and Middle Shelves using your Kreg Jig set for 1/2″ stock and your 1″ PHS. Fasten the back panel to the side panels and shelves. Use 1″ brad nails or 5/8″ Screws.
Create your Face Frame: use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4″ stock and use your 1 1/4″ PHS. Place your pocket holes on the rails (horizontal pieces). Fasten to your cabinet using 2″ finish nails and glue.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.