I have been soooo excited to share this plan with you guys and even more excited to finish this project! To say that shoes, and keys, and coats, and other random things have been taking over my house is a major understatement! I was inspired by Ana’s plan for a Mud Room Locker System, in fact it might be my favorite plan of hers to date! But I don’t have a mud room, or an extra closet to transform into a mudroom. *Sad Face*
I do however have exactly the depth of a 1×10 between my front door frame and the wall! Score! To say I am lucky to have this space is also an understatement, major… Yahoo. Enter stage right for this set of plans. I wanted something similar to Ana’s, but it needed to be no more than 10 3/4″ deep and couldn’t be more than 42″ wide to fit perfectly in this space. And that’s precisely what this is, and plan for a Faux Mud Room with a narrow profile! I couldn’t be happier with the end result, and I hope this might benefit some of you!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
- Safety Gear
- Jig Saw
- Kreg Jig
- Nail Gun
- 2 – 1×2 at 8′
- 1 – 1×2 at 6′
- 1 – 1×3 at 8′
- 2 – 1×10 at 8′
- 1 – 1×10 at 6′
- 1 – 1×8 at 8′
- 1 – 1×8 at 4′
- 1 – 3/4″ trim at 8′ – optional
- 1 1/4″ OR 2″ Wood Screws (either will work)
- 2″ Drywall Screws
- 1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws
- 1 1/4″ Finish Nails
- Wood Glue
- Wood Filler
- Sanding Supplies
- Finishing Supplies
- 3 – 1×2 at 42″ Face Frame Trim
- 3 – 1×2 at 16 1/2″ Face Frame Trim Bottom
- 3 – 1×2 at 14 1/2″ Face Frame Trim Top
- 2 – 1×3 at 42″ Coat Rack and Cleat
- 3 – 1×10 at 42″ Top and Bottom Box
- 3 – 1×10 at 16″ Top Box
- 3 – 1×10 at 17″ Bottom Box
- 3 – 1×8 at 47″ Decorative Panels
- 2 – 3/4″ trim at 42″ – optional
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Build the Bottom Bench Seat Box: Use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4″ stock and your 1 1/4″ Pocket hole screws and glue. **You can trim out your box in this step if it’s easier for you. See step 6 for dimensions. I typically do this at the end so that I can use the trim to disguise flaws or correct issues with my pieces not being perfectly square etc.
Build the Top Box: Use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4″ stock and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue. **You can trim out your box in this step if it’s easier for you. See step 6 for dimensions. I typically do this at the end so that I can use the trim to disguise flaws or correct issues with my pieces not being perfectly square etc.
Create your Decorative Center Panels: You need 3 of these, and you will use your jig saw to cut the shape as shown below. Of course you can also use any shape you like. Place your pocket holes in the top and bottom of each panel to secure to your boxes in the next step. You will set your Kreg Jig for 3/4″ stock.
Attach the Decorative Panels to you Top and Bottom Boxes: Use your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue to attach at the outside and center of the boxes.
Add the Cleat and Coat Rack: Secure your 1×3 across the back and attach to your Decorative Panels using 1 1/4″ or 2″ Wood Screws and Glue. This is how you will secure your unit to the wall ultimately, and it will also help you support and stabilize your unit since it’s not built in.
Trim out your Top and Bottom Boxes: Use 1 1/4″ Finish Nails and Glue. You can also do this after you build the boxes, I simply prefer to have everything in place before I trim so that I might use the trim to correct any issues with being squared up or uneven cuts etc. At this point you can also attach molding along the top of the face frames for both the boxes. I chose not to only because I didn’t have any on hand, and I had everything else… See I’m lazy! Whatyagonnado…
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
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**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
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