The perfect solution for your entryway with ample storage space and that rustic traditional styling, it’s so completely perfect!
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Table Saw
- Kreg Jig
- Hammer or Brad nailer
- 1 – sheet of ¼” lauan or hardboard
- 1 – sheet of ½” plywood
- 1/4 – sheet of ½” plywood
- 1 – sheet of ¾” plywood
- 1/4 sheet of ¾” plywood
- 14 -1×2 at 8’
- 5 – 1×3 at 8’
- 1 – 2×2 at 4’
- 1” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- 1-1/2” screws
- Small nails or 1-1/4” brads
- Countersink bit for Drill
- 4 pair of hinges
- 4 Door Pulls
- Edge banding for exposed edges of plywood, if desired
- 2 – 1” angle brackets
- Wood filler
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
- 2 – 16” x 27-1/2” of ½” plywood – Lower Sides
- 2 – 16” x 40” of ½” plywood – Upper Sides
- 4 – 1×2 at 16” – Side Frames
- 2 – 1×3 at 19” – Side Frames
- 4 – 1×2 at 70-1/2” – Side Frames
- 15 – 1×2 at 18” – Solid Shelf Supports
- 6 – 1×2 at 18-3/4” – Slatted Shelf Supports
- 3 – 1×2 at 17-1/4” – Bottom Support
- 6 – 18” x 46-1/2” of ¾” plywood – Shelves, Top & Bottom
- 10 – 1×3 at 46-1/2” – Slats
- 1 – 46-1/2” x 73-1/4” of ¼” lauan or hardboard – Back
- 1 – 1×2 at 46-1/2” – Lower Trim Filler
- 2 – 1×2 at 19” – Lower Trim Sides
- 1 – 1×2 at 49-1/2” – Lower Trim Front
- 2 – 2×2 at 19” (mitered on table saw) – Upper Trim
- 1 – 1×2 at 51” – Upper Trim
- 4 – 1×2 at 11-3/4” – Upper Door Frame
- 4 – 1×2 at 18-1/2” – Upper Door Frame
- 2 – 8-3/4” x 18-1/2” of ½” plywood – Upper Door Panels
- 4 – 1×2 at 18-1/2” – Lower Door Frame
- 4 – 1×2 at 27-3/4” – Lower Door Frame
- 2 – 18-1/2” x 24-3/4” of ½” plywood – Lower Door Panels
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the 1×2 and 1×3 pieces for the side frames and the pieces for the panels from ½” plywood. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces as indicated for the frames. Assemble the frames with spacing as indicated using 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in the panels. Attach the panels to the frames with 1” pocket hole screws.
Cut the 1×2 pieces for the shelf supports. For the side supports there will be twelve 1x2x18” and four 1x2x18-3/4”. Attach to side panels with spacing as indicated using countersunk 1-1/4” screws. Note that the supports for the top, upper three shelves, and the bottom will be located ¾” back from the front edge and ¼” back from the back edge.
If using edge banding on the exposed edges of the plywood shelves, it should be applied before assembly.
Cut the 1×2 pieces for the center shelf supports, the 1×3 pieces for the slatted shelves, and the ¾” plywood pieces for the top, bottom, and shelves. Attach the center supports to the solid shelves with countersunk 1-1/4” screws.
Assemble the slatted shelves as shown in the drawing.
Attach the shelves to the cabinet sides with countersunk 1-1/2” screws through the top of the shelf through the side supports. It may be easier to start with the bottom shelf, add the top, and then check for square. Add the remaining shelves starting with the lowest slat shelf first and work up. (This method will avoid tight spaces for the drill!)
Cut the piece for the back from 1/4” lauan or hardboard. Attach to top, bottom, shelves, and supports with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the 1×2 pieces for the trim filler and lower trim pieces. Attach the trim filler first with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through bottom shelf and sides. Make sure the face of the filler piece is flush with the edge of the bottom and sides. Next, attach the sides trim pieces, fastening them in the same manner and finally add the front trim piece.
Cut the 1×2 pieces for the door frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Assemble frame with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Next , attach frame to front of cabinet with the top of the frame flush with the top of the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the frame into the supports, including the center. A few brad nails can also be placed through the frame into the top and lower solid shelf. The sides of the frame should be flush with the cabinet sides and for extra security, afew brad nails can be placed through the sides into the frame.
Cut the 1×2 pieces for the lower door frames and the ½” plywood pieces for the panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes as shown in the frame pieces. Assemble the frames with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in the plywood panels as shown. Attach to the frame with glue and 1” pocket hole screws making sure the back of the panel is flush with the back of the frame.
Attach the hinges to the doors. The doors will overlap the frame opening by ¼” on all sides. Secure the hinges to the cabinet when you are satisfied with the placement.
The upper doors are constructed in exactly the same manner as the lower doors. Follow the lower door directions for assembly and placement.
Cut the pieces as indicated for the “crown” trim at the top. Using a table saw with the blade tilted at 45 degrees, cut the mitered angle along the length of the 2×2 pieces. Attach the angles 2×2 pieces to the mitered 1×2 piece with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the front. The assembly will them be attached to the cabinet 1/4″down from the top and secured with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. 1” angle brackets will be used to attach the sides of the “crown” to the top of the cabinet.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
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**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.