A stunning piece to add to our Chesapeake Collection, this outdoor bar is sure to be the talk of your next backyard party!
As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!
- 2 – 2×2 at 8’
- 10 – 1×3 at 8’
- 2 – 1×4 at 8’
- 1 – 1×4 at 4’
- 2 – 1×2 at 8’
- Half sheet of ¾” plywood
- 4 – 2×2 at 41-1/4” – Side Frames
- 4 – 1×3 at 7” – Side Frames
- 27 – 1×3 at 21” – Door, Side & Back Panels
- 2 – 1×3 (ripped to 2” wide) at 21” – Side Panels
- 4 – 1×3 at 32-1/2” – Back Panel & Shelf Aprons
- 2 – 1×2 at 7” – Top Supports
- 2 – 1×2 at 32-1/2” – Top Supports
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 8-1/2” x 34” – Shelves
- 4 – 1×3 at 12-1/2” – Door Panels
- 4 – 1×3 at 26” – Door Panels
- 6 – 1×4 at 16” – Door Frames
- 2 – 1×4 at 26” – Door Frames
- 2 – 1×4 at approx. 41-1/4” (will vary based on caster height) – Door Frames
- 4 – 1×2 at 16” – Shelf Pieces
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the side frames. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material. Drill pocket holes in each end of the 1×3 frame boards as well as the slats. Assemble as shown with the 2” slat for the panel in the center using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Attach the panels to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the back panel. Drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces as well as the slats. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Attach the panel to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the aprons. Drill pocket holes at each end. Assemble using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the top supports. Drill pocket holes in each end and assemble using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the shelves. Cut ¾” x ¾” notches at each corner to allow for the legs. Drill pocket holes as shown and assemble using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the door panels. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the door frame. The measurement of the longest piece will depend on the height of the casters, although the casters should not be any taller than 2” – the overall length should be 41-1/4″. Drill pocket holes in each of the 16” pieces and assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Attach the door panels to the frames with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the door panel into the frame. There will be a right door and a left door.
Attach the shelf pieces to the inside of the doors at the spacing indicated using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the sides into the pieces.
Attach the doors to the cabinet with hinges.
Cut the pieces for the top. The longer piece will be attached to the top supports with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the supports. The smaller pieces will be attached to the longer piece with hinges and will fold over, then rest on the taller door frame pieces when the doors are open.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.