Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Hendrix Large Desk
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Countersink Bit for Drill
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
- 2 – sheets ¾” plywood
- 2 – 2×6 at 6’
- 3 – 2×4 at 8’
- 1 – 2×4 at 6’
- 3 – 1×4 at 8’
- 1 – 1×3 at 8’
- 1 – 2’ x 2’ sheet of lauan, plywood, or hardboard
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 2” pocket hole screws
- 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
- 2” screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- 1 – drawer pull
- 1 set of 20” drawer slides
- Wide edge banding for the top
- Wood filler
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 26” x 85” – Top
- 4 – 2×6 at 31-1/2 – Legs
- 4 – 2×4 at 23” – Side Aprons
- 1 – 2×4 at 64-1/8” – Upper Back Apron
- 1 – 2×4 at 72-5/16” – Lower Back Apron
- 4 – 1×4 at 23” – Top Supports
- 2 – 1×4 at 19” – Back Supports
- 2 – 2×4 at 34-1/2” – Diagonal Supports
- 1 – 1×4 at 45-1/8” – Front
- 1 – 1×4 at 18-3/4” – Drawer Front
- 2 – 1×3 at 18” – Drawer Box
- 2 – 1×3 at 18-1/2” – Drawer Box
- 1 – ¼” lauan, plywood, or hardboard at 18” x 20” – Drawer Bottom
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the plywood for the top. Spread a layer of glue on the face of one piece with a brush and position the second piece on top. Wiggle the top piece around to create suction and clamp to dry. A few brad nails can be placed through one of the pieces into the other to secure the pieces together. Once the glue dries, apply edge banding to the exposed edges of the plywood and trim away the excess.
Cut the pieces for the legs. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes at one edge of each leg. Do not forget there will be a right side set and a left side set so the pocket holes will need to face to the inside. Secure the legs to the top as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the side aprons. Drill pocket holes at each end and secure to the legs using glue and 2” pocket hole screws. The face of the aprons will be parallel to the edge of the legs and will be located 2” in from the outside edge.
Cut the pieces for the back aprons. Cut the angles as shown and drill pocket holes at each end. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the top supports. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Secure to the legs and top using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the back supports. Drill pocket holes at each end. Secure to the back aprons using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The inside face of the supports will be flush with the inside face of the back aprons.
Cut the pieces for the diagonal supports. Attach to the side aprons using glue and 2” countersunk screws.
Cut the piece for the front. Cut the angle as shown and drill pocket holes in this edge only. (If facing the front of the desk, this edge will be on the left and the pocket holes will be on the inside) Attach to the left leg using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the other end to the middle top support using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the front into the support.
Cut the piece for the drawer box. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Cut the piece for the drawer bottom. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Attach the drawer slide hardware. For an easy tutorial on how to attach drawer slides, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.
Cut the piece for the drawer front. Cut the angle as shown and drill the holes for the drawer pull. There will be a 1/8” gap on the sides and top of the drawer. Attach to the drawer box, then attach the drawer pull.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.