Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Jacqueline Dresser. To me, this piece is both substantialy and dainty at the same time. It’s that classic look of a traditional piece with french lines made to stand the test of time. love…. Xx… Rayan
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
- 4 – 1×2 at8’
- 2 – 2×2 at 8’
- 2 sheets of ¾” plywood
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Edge banding for plywood, optional
- 3 sets of 18” drawer slides
- Drawer pulls
- Wood filler
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
- 4 – 2×2 at 36-1/4” – Legs
- 4 – 1×2 at 18” – Side Frames
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 27-3/4” – Side Panels
- 6 – 1×2 at 38” – Back Frame & Front Stretchers
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 27-3/4” x 38” – Back Panel
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 21” x 42” – Top
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 35-1/2” – Drawer Bottoms
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 17-1/4” – Small Drawer Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 37” – Small Drawer Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 37-3/4” – Small Drawer Front
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 10” x 17-1/4” – Large Drawer Sides
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 10” x 37” – Large Drawer Back
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 10” x 37-3/4” – Large Drawer Front
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 6-1/4” x 20-1/2” – Hutch Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 6-1/4” x 39-1/2” – Hutch Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 9” x 41” – Hutch Top
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 1×2 frame pieces as well as all four edges of the plywood panel. Attach the frame pieces to the plywood panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back edge of the frame pieces. Also, the pocket holes on the frame pieces should be positioned so they are facing out (one set toward the top and one set toward the bottom). This is so they will be hidden and won’t have to be filled!
Attach the side panel assembly to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the back. Drill pocket holes in each end of the 1×2 frame pieces as well as all four edges of the plywood panel. Attach the frame pieces to the plywood panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back edge of the frame pieces. Also, the pocket holes on the frame pieces should be positioned so they are facing out.
Attach the back assembly to the side panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the front stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the side panels as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top stretcher should be positioned so the pocket holes are facing up while the others are positioned so the pocket holes face down.
Cut the piece for the top. If using edge banding, it will need to be applied to the top before the top is secured. The sides will overlap by ½” at each side. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the side panels, back panel, and front stretcher.
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Apply edge banding to all four edges of the front, if desired. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Attach the side pieces to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Then attach the front and back pieces. The front will overlap the drawer box by 3/8” on each side. Install the drawer slide hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer front in the opening. Install the knobs or handles.
Cut the pieces for the sides of the hutch. Maintain the dimensions shown in the drawing and draw a line to cut a decorative curve using a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes in the lower edge of the pieces – keep in mind there will be a right and a left. Apply edge banding, if desired. Position the pieces so they are located ½” in from the side edges, and the back edge is flush with the back edge of the top. Attach to the top of the dresser using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the back of the hutch. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the hutch top. Apply edge banding to all four edges, if desired. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the hutch sides and back.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.