Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Crate and Barrel Inspired Village Black Armless Bench. Simple lines, beautiful features, this bench has it all… Xx.. Rayan
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Countersink Bit for Drill
- Kreg Jig
- Brad nailer
- 4 – 1×2 at 8’
- 2 – 1×3 at 8’
- 2 – 2×2 at 8’
- 1 – 2’ x 4’ sheet of ¾” plywood
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Edge banding for plywood
- Wood filler
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
- 2 – 2×2 at 18” – Lower Back Legs
- 2 – 2×2 at 18-1/2” – Upper Back Legs
- 1 – 1×2 at 35-3/4” – Back Stretcher
- 2 – 1×3 at 35-3/4” – Lower Back & Front Stretchers
- 1 – 1×2 at 39-3/4” – Upper Back
- 11 – 1×2 at 14” – Back Slats
- 2 – 2×2 at 17-1/4” – Front Legs
- 2 – 1×3 at 16-1/2” – Upper Side Stretchers
- 2 – 1×3 at 17-1/2” – Seat Supports
- 2 – 1×2 at approximately 17-3/16” – Lower Side Stretchers (Cut these pieces after the chair is assembled)
- 1 – 1×2 at 36-3/4” – Lower Stretchers
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 19-1/2” x 38-3/4” – Seat
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the upper and lower back legs. Cut the tapers using a jigsaw or tapering jig on a table saw. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the top edge of the lower back legs. Note there will be a right and a left leg. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the back edge of the upper legs. Assemble the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the back stretchers and the upper back. Cut the angle in each end of the upper back noting that it is not a 45 degree angle. Drill pocket holes in each end of the back stretcher as well as the lower back stretcher. Position the 1×2 back stretcher as shown and secure to the upper back legs using glue and 1-1/4”pocket hole screws. The front face of the stretcher will be flush with the front face of the upper legs. Position the lower stretcher ¼” back from the outside edge of the legs and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the slats and cut a 5 degree bevel in the top edge of each slat slanting toward the back. Drill pocket holes in each then secure as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the front legs and the front stretcher. Cut the tapers in the front legs in the same manner as the back legs. Drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher then secure as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the upper side stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the front and back legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Position the stretchers ¼” back from the outside edge of the legs.
Cut the pieces for the seat supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the stretchers as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the lower stretchers. The length and angle of the side stretchers will depend on the angle of the legs as well as the measurement between them. Clamp a 1×2 piece to the legs at the position of the lower stretcher and draw a line along the angles. Cut with the saw of your choice, then drill pocket holes in each end. Position the stretchers so they are located ¼” back from the outside face then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the center lower stretcher and drill pocket holes at each end. Position it in the center of the lower side stretchers then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the seat and cut the notches using a jigsaw. Apply the edge banding, if desired. Position the seat on the frame and secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.