Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Bromley Desk. I just love a good desk with a fold down lid, don’t you? I personally love the ability to hide stuff away when not in use so I can pretend it’s not there and this baby gives me that option! Xx… Rayan
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Countersink Bit for Drill
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
- 1 – 1×2 at 4’
- 2 – 1×4 at 8’
- 2 – 1×6 at 8’
- 1 – 1×12 at 8’
- 3 – 2×2 at 8’
- 1 Half sheet of ½” plywood
- 1 Quarter sheet of ¾” plywood
- 1” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- 1 – 40” continuous hinge
- 4 – small cabinet pulls
- Wood filler
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
- 4 – 2×2 at 29-3/4” – Legs
- 4 – 2×2 at 19” – Leg Stretchers
- 2 – 2×2 at 37” – Base Stretchers
- 2 – 1×6 at 21-1/4” – Box Sides
- 1 – 1×6 at 38-1/2” – Box Back
- 2 – ½” plywood at 20-1/2” x 38-1/2” – Box Bottom & Shelf
- 1 – 1×6 (ripped to 3-5/8” wide) at 9-1/2” – Drawer Divider
- 1 – 1×12 (ripped to 10-1/4” wide) at 40” – Top
- 2 – 1×4 at 10-5/8” – Hinged Top Sides
- 1 – 1×12 (ripped to 10-5/8” wide) at 40” – Hinged Top
- 1 – 1×6 (ripped to 4-3/4” wide) at 40” – Hinged Top Front
- 2 – 1×10 (ripped to 8” wide) at 17-1/8” – Drawer Bottoms
- 4 – 1×4 at 8” – Drawer Sides
- 4 – 1×4 at 18-5/8” – Drawer Front & Back
- 1 – 1×2 (ripped to 1-1/4” wide) at 40” – Tray Front
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/2” x 38-1/4” – Tray
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the legs and leg stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher pieces. Attach to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the base stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the box sides as shown. Cut the piece for the back, set the Kreg jig for ¾” material, and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the back piece to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the box bottom. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in each side as well as one long end. Attach to the box sides and back using glue and 1” pocket hole screws.
Position the box on the leg assembly as shown locating the box ¾” away from the front edge of the legs. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the bottom into the legs, side stretchers, and upper base stretcher.
Cut the pieces for the shelf and the drawer divider. Position the shelf as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the outside of the sides and back of the box into the shelf. To help position the shelf, spacers can be cut from scrap lumber to keep everything in place!
Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the box sides, back, and divider using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the tray. Drill pocket holes in the tray piece as shown, then attach the front piece. The top of the tray will be flush with the top of the front piece. Apply a coat of paste wax to the bottom of the tray to help it slide smoothly.
Cut the pieces for the hinged top. Cut the sides as shown. Attach the top to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Attach the front using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The front will be ½” wider than the sides! Attach the hinged top to the box top using a continuous hinge cut to length. (It can be cut using a hacksaw.)
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Attach the sides to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails, then attach the front and back in the same manner. Apply a coat of paste wax to the bottom of the drawers (this helps them slide smoothly) and insert the boxes into the openings – there will be a 1/8” gap at the sides and top. Install all of the cabinet pulls.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.