Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Copenhagen Media Stand. The frame can be painted with metallic paint to mimic metal and give this piece a fabulous industrial feel. Xx…Rayan
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Kreg Jig
- Brad nailer
- Scrap of 1×2 measuring approximately 16”
- 6 – 2×2 at 8’
- 2 sheets of ¾” plywood
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Edge banding, optional
- 3 sets of 18” drawer slides
- 3 cabinet pulls
- Wood filler
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
- 4 – 2×2 at 12” – Legs
- 4 – 2×2 at 71” – Stretchers
- 4 – 2×2 at 9” – Frame Supports
- 8 – 2×2 at 17” – Stretchers
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 74” – Bottom & Top
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 20” – Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 7-7/8” x 72-1/2” – Back
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 7-7/8” x 19-1/4” – Dividers
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 72-1/2” – Shelf
- 2 – 1×2 at 7-7/8” – Top Supports
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 20-1/2” – Small Drawer Bottom
- 6 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 16-1/2” – Small & Large Drawer Box Sides
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 22” – Small Drawer Box Front & Back
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 21-1/2” – Large Drawer Bottoms
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 23” – Large Drawer Box Front & Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 7-5/8” x 22-3/4” – Small Drawer Front
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 7-5/8” x 23-3/4” – Large Drawer Fronts
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the legs, the longer stretchers, and the supports. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher pieces as well as each end of the support pieces. Assemble the frames as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the side stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the frames as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
If using edge banding, it will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.
Cut the piece for the bottom then secure to the frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the lower edges only. Secure to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position in the cabinet as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the dividers and drill pocket holes in the lower edges only. Secure to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Add a few 1-1/4” brad nails through the back to further secure the dividers.
Cut the piece for the shelf. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the back. Use 1-1/4” brad nails through the sides into the shelf, as well as through the shelf into the dividers.
Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Cut the pieces for the top supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the drawers. The center drawer is narrower than the drawers on either side. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottoms. Assemble the drawer boxes as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions then make any necessary adjustments.
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the fronts in the openings. Mark the position for the cabinet pulls and drill the holes. Place the drawer front in the opening and shim in place. Drive screws through the holes for the handles to temporarily hold the front in place. Open the drawer and attach the front to the drawer box from the inside with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handles.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.