Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Mid Century Modern Credenza. This style is wonderful because of how easily it can mesh with other styles. I am not always a fan of pieces that are too matchy matchy, so mixing a modern piece with a vintage inspired piece or a traditional piece is a fabulous way to make your furniture look collected and intentional without it looking like you purchased it all from the same store! Don’t be afraid to mix it up my friends… Xx…Rayan
As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig Saw, Circular, Table, or Miter Saw
- Multi-Square and Carpenter’s Square
- Kreg Jig – if you build frequently, invest in this one.
- Nail Gun – optional
- Router with Patterning bit – or bit set – optional
- 3 – 1×2 at 6’
- 1 – 1×2 at 8’
- 3 – 1×6 at 8’
- 1 – 2×4 at 4’
- 2 sheets of ¾” plywood
- 1-1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws
- 1-1/4″ Brad Nails
- 3 sets of 18” Drawer Slides
- 2 sets of Face Frame Concealed Hinges
- Concealed Hinge Jig
- 5 Drawer/Cabinet Pulls
- Pocket Hole Plugs – Paint Grade, Pine, Oak – optional
- Safety Gear
- 3/4″ Edge Banding – optional
- Wood Filler
- Wood Glue
- Sanding Supplies
- Paste Wax
- Finishing Supplies
- Anti-Tip Kit
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 19-3/4” x 72-1/2” – Bottom
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 19-3/4” x 21” – Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/4” x 72-1/2” – Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 19” x 20-1/4” – Divider
- 3 – 1×2 (or ¾” plywood ripped to 1-1/2” wide) at 24” – Front Stretchers
- 1 – 1×2 (or ¾” plywood ripped to 1-1/2” wide) at 47-3/4” – Front Stretcher
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 19” x 47-3/4” – Shelf
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/2” x 74” – Top
- 4 – 2×4 at 11-1/4” – Legs
- 2 – 1×2 at 48” – Base Stretchers
- 2 – 1×2 at 11” – Base Stretchers
- 1 – 1×2 at 11-3/4” – Base Support
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 21-1/2” – Drawer Bottoms
- 6 – 1×6 (or ¾” plywood ripped to 5-1/2” wide) at 16-1/2” – Drawer Sides
- 6 – 1×6 (or ¾” plywood ripped to 5-1/2” wide) at 23” – Drawer Box Front & Back
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 6-1/2” x 25-1/4” – Drawer Fronts
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 24-5/16” – Doors
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
If using edge banding, it will be applied before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the bottom and the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each of the shorter edges of the bottom piece. Secure to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in each side as well as the bottom edge. Secure to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the divider. Drill pocket holes in the back edge as well as the bottom edge. Position as shown, then secure to the base using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The pocket holes should face into the drawer area so they will not be visible.
Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The front will overhang by ¾”.
Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut a 30 degree angle in each end. Mark the taper, then cut using a jigsaw, a bandsaw, or a tapering jig on the table saw.
Cut the pieces for the stretchers. Cut a 45 degree angle in each end of the long stretchers and the short stretchers. Also drill pocket holes along one long edge of each piece (to attach to the bottom of the cabinet). Secure to the legs (the top of the stretchers will be flush with the top of the legs) using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Drill pocket holes in each end of the support piece. Position in the center of the longer stretchers then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Position the base frame on the bottom of the cabinet. It will be located 12” in from each side, and 3-1/4” from the front edge. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in each end of the sides as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions then make any necessary adjustments.
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts and pre-drill the holes for the handles. The drawer fronts will be flush with the left edge of the cabinet, and will overlap the drawer opening by ¼” at the top, bottom, and right side. Drive screws through the holes for the handles to temporarily hold the front in place. Open the drawer and attach the front to the drawer box from the inside with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handles.
Position the second and third drawer fronts in the same manner with ¼” spacing between them.
Cut the pieces for the doors. There will be a 1/8” gap between them, and the right door will be flush with the right edge of the cabinet, as well as overlap the top and bottom of the opening by ¼”. Install the hinges according to the manufacturer’s instructions then make any necessary adjustments. Install the cabinet pulls.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
5 comments on “Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Mid Century Modern Credenza”
Why aren’t the pictures, and more importantly the TEXT that goes along with them larger? This IS a DIY after all, it would be nice to actually be able to read what it is instructing you to do.
All fixed! Sorry about that, some of the plans need to have their images re-uploaded as they didn’t migrate properly in the site move 🙁 You can click on them for a larger image!
One small suggestion. On the back piece in step 2 you drill the pocket holes on the side facing the cabinet doors. Wouldn’t it make sense in this case to drill those holes on the back side of the board, or just turn that back piece around so the pocket holes face the wall? Would make a cleaner look if you are putting your furniture against a wall.
absolutely wonderful suggestion. if building this, or any credenza type piece for that matter, that will sit against a wall… putting the pocket holes on the backside is a fantastic solution.
Can you post a picture of how you lay out the cuts on the sheets of plywood to get the most of each sheet?