Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Parquetry Dresser, and one of three new pieces we will be covering in this fabulous little collection! I hope you guys like it, I know I do! Xx…Rayan
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
- 2 – 1×2 at 8’
- 3 – 1×4 at 8’
- 1 Half sheet of ½” plywood
- 1 Full sheet of ¾” plywood
- ¼” plywood or lattice strips measuring 1-1/2” wide – approximately 2 – 8’ strips
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- ½” brad nails
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- 1-1/4” screws
- 3 sets of 16” drawer slides
- 3 drawer pulls
- Wood filler
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
- 4 – 1×2 at 4” – Legs
- 2 – 1×2 at 14-7/8” – Aprons
- 2 – 1×2 at 32-7/8” – Aprons
- 1 – 1×2 at 14-7/16” – Support
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 36” – Bottom & Top
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 28-1/2” –Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 28-1/2” x 34-1/2” –Back
- 2 – 1×2 at 34-1/2” – Stretchers
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 32” – Drawer Box Bottoms
- 6 – 1×8 at 14-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
- 6 – 1×8 at 33-1/2” – Drawer Box Front & Back
- 1 – ½” plywood at 30” x 36” – Drawer Front Base
- Strips of ¼” plywood or lattice strips at 1-1/2” x 6” to 8” long (your choice!)
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the taper using a jigsaw or a tapering jig on the table saw.
Cut the pieces for the aprons and cut 45 degree miters in each end. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The inside face o the legs will be flush with the inside face of the aprons.
Cut the piece for the support. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the aprons as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the bottom. Secure to the leg frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the sides and drill pocket holes at each end. Attach to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges as shown. Secure to the bottom and sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the top and secure to sides and back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottoms. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Install the drawer slides and make any necessary adjustments.
Cut the piece for the drawer front base, as well as the trim pieces. There is no cut list or number of pieces listed. Most of the pieces will be attached to the drawer front as-is, but several will have to be cut to fit. Start by positioning the first piece at the top center of the drawer front base at a 45 degree angle as shown. Secure in place using glue and ½” brad nails.
Position the next piece perpendicular to the start piece as shown. Secure using glue and ½” brad nails. Once these two pieces have been positioned, the rest of the pieces can be added, cutting and trimming as necessary.
Once all of the trim pieces have been positioned, the drawer front base can be cut apart for the individual drawer fronts. This way the trim pattern matches on each of the drawer fronts. It will also help to number the back side of the drawer fronts. Set the rip fence on the table saw the required distance away from the blade to create each drawer front. Run the piece through the saw. Reset the rip fence for the next drawer front, and run it through the saw. The drawer fronts can also be cut apart using a jigsaw and a straight edge. Mark the position for the drawer pulls on the front and drill the holes for the screws. Position the fronts in place on the cabinet and drive screws through the holes for the pull into the drawer boxes. Open the drawer and secure the front in place using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the front and finish drilling the holes for the pulls. There will be a 1/8” gap between the drawer fronts. For an easy tutorial, click here.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.