Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Parquetry End Table! Last week we brought you Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Parquetry Dresser and now the coordinating end table, yahoo! We still have one more piece in this collection and it’s perhaps the most exciting yet! Xx…Rayan
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
- 1 – 1×2 at 6’
- 2 – 1×2 at 8’
- 1 – 1×4 at 6’
- 1 – 2’ x 2’ sheet of ½” plywood
- 1 Half sheet of ¾” plywood
- ¼” plywood or lattice strips measuring 1-1/2” wide – approximately 2 – 8’ strips
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- ½” brad nails
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- 1-1/4” screws
- 1 set of 14” drawer slides
- One drawer pull
- Wood filler
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
- 4 – 1×2 at 18-3/4” – Legs
- 2 – 1×2 at 16-13/16” – Aprons
- 2 – 1×2 at 13-3/8” – Aprons
- 2 – 1×2 at 26” – Lower Bracing
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 18-1/2” – Bottom
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 15” – Drawer Frame Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 20” – Drawer Frame Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 15-3/4” x 20” – Top
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/2” x 16” – Drawer Box Bottom
- 2 – 1×4 at 12-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
- 2 – 1×4 at 17-1/2” – Drawer Box Front & Back
- 1 – ½” plywood at 6-1/4” x 20” – Drawer Front Base
- Strips of ¼” plywood or lattice strips at 1-1/2” x 6” to 8” long (your choice!)
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the taper using a jigsaw or a tapering jig on the table saw.
Cut the pieces for the aprons and cut 45 degree miters in each end. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The inside face o the legs will be flush with the inside face of the aprons.
Cut the pieces for the cross braces. The pieces are cut extra long so that the angle can be cut to fit the legs. Because the bracing will cross to create a rectangle, the notches will have to be cut at an angle (see drawing). In other words, the notch will not be perpendicular to the board. Mark the center of the board on one end face. Draw a mark 3/8” on either side of the center mark. Use a square to draw the notch at a 13 degree angle, ¾” deep. Cut with a hacksaw or a jigsaw.
The bracing will be positioned on the legs 4” up from the floor. Assemble the bracing in an “X” and clamp to the legs to draw the angle for the cut. Cut using a jigsaw or miter saw, then drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the bottom. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Secure to the leg frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the drawer frame sides and back. Drill pocket holes in one shorter end of the sides. Secure to the back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Secure the frame to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Attach the drawer slides to the inside of the frame. This will make them easier to install before the top is attached.
Cut the piece for the top and secure to the drawer frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the drawer. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Install the drawer-side drawer slides and make any necessary adjustments.
Cut the piece for the drawer front base, as well as the trim pieces. There is no cut list or number of pieces listed. Most of the pieces will be attached to the drawer front as-is, but several will have to be cut to fit. Start by positioning the first piece at the bottom center of the drawer front base at a 45 degree angle as shown. Secure in place using glue and ½” brad nails.
Position the next piece perpendicular to the start piece as shown. Secure using glue and ½” brad nails. Once these two pieces have been positioned, the rest of the pieces can be added, cutting and trimming as necessary.
Mark the position for the drawer pull and drill the holes. Position the drawer front as shown then drive a screw through each hole into the drawer box behind it. Open the drawer, then secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes in the front and finish drilling the holes for the drawer pull. Install the drawer pull.
For an easy tutorial, click here.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.