Plans

Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build an Ovation Sideboard

04.04.14 By //
You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build an Ovation Sideboard via @thedesconf

A good sideboard slash buffet slash console slash media cabinet slash thing to put things on and in is hard to find without spending approximately one bajillion dollars. These are the perfect builds to tackle if saving cash is your thing (totally my thing since I’m always dirt poor). Yes installing drawers is a pain in the neck, but there are only three and aside from those bad boys, it’s really just a carcass, or a box, if you prefer to call it something a bit less macabre, which clearly I don’t, Xx… Rayan

As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!

$150-$200

You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build an Ovation Sideboard via @thedesconf
  • 2 – 1×2 at 6’
  • 2 – 2×2 at 8’
  • 2 sheets of ¾” plywood

Optional (if you’d rather not cut these pieces from the plywood):

  • 1 – 1×2 at 6’
  • 1 – 1×2 at 8’
  • 3 – 1×6 at 8’
  • 6 – 2×2 at 8” – Legs
  • 2 – 2×2 at 19” – Side Stretchers
  • 8 – 1×2 at 14” – Angled Leg Stretchers
  • 2 – 2×2 at 65” – Base Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 21-1/4” x 66-1/2” – Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 25-1/4” x 66-1/2” – Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 22” x 25-1/4” – Sides
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/2” x 24-1/2” – Dividers
  • 2 – 1×2 (or ¾” plywood ripped to 1-1/2” wide) at 24-1/2” – Divider Trim
  • 2 – 1×2 (or ¾” plywood ripped to 1-1/2” wide) at 20-3/4” – Front Stretchers
  • 3 – 1×2 (or ¾” plywood ripped to 1-1/2” wide) at 22” – Front Stretchers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/2” x 21-1/2” – Shelves
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 22-3/4” x 68” – Top
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/2” x 22-3/4” – Door Base
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/2” x 19-1/2” – Drawer Bottoms
  • 6 – 1×6 (or ¾” plywood ripped to 5-1/2” wide) at 18-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 6 – 1×6 (or ¾” plywood ripped to 5-1/2” wide) at 21” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 7-1/2” x 22-1/4” – False Drawer Fronts (Doors)
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 8” x 22-1/4” – False Drawer Fronts (Doors)
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 7-1/4” x 22-3/4” – Drawer Fronts
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 8” x 22-3/4” plywood – Lower Drawer Front

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Cut the pieces for the legs and the side stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher pieces. Secure to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Orient the pocket holes so they face down and won’t have to be filled.

Cut the pieces for the angled stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in one end only of each piece. Cut a 45 degree angle in the opposite end. Position the stretchers on the center leg, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the entire assembly to the side frames using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the pieces for the base stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher pieces. Secure to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Orient the pocket holes so they face down and won’t have to be filled.

If using edge banding, it will be applied before assembly.

Cut the piece for the bottom. Position the bottom so that the front edge is flush with the front edge of the base. The bottom will be shorter than the sides and back by ¾”. Secure to the frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Add a countersunk 2” screw through the bottom into the center leg.

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position as shown, then secure to the base using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the sides and drill pocket holes in the bottom edge. Attach to the bottom and back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the dividers and drill pocket holes in the back edge as well as the bottom edge. Note that there will be a left and a right so that the pocket holes are hidden in the drawer area. Position as shown (3/4” back from the front edge), then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the divider trim. Secure to the front edge of the dividers using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The edge of the trim that will face the drawer area will be flush with the inside of the dividers.

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in the back edge and side edges. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the top. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the dividers, sides, stretchers, and back.

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in each end of the sides as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions then make any necessary adjustments.

Cut the pieces for the door bases. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the opening. Install the hinges on the doors, then install the doors in the cabinet.

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. The center drawer fronts are wider than the false drawer fronts, and the lower drawer fronts are taller than the other drawer fronts.

Install the center drawer fronts first by pre-drilling the holes for the cabinet pull. The upper drawer front will overlap the sides by 3/8”, and the top and bottom by ¼”. Install this drawer front first, then install the remaining center fronts with a ¼” gap between them. Drive screws through the holes for the handles to temporarily hold the front in place. Open the drawer and attach the front to the drawer box from the inside with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handles. Install the cabinet pulls.

The false drawer fronts will line up with the center drawer fronts and will be flush with the sides of the cabinet. Secure to the door using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Install the cabinet pulls.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

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