Plans

Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Shelby Accessory Tower

05.12.14 By //
You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Shelby Accessory Tower via @thedesconf

By Special Reader Request, this fabulous DIY furniture plan for building your own storage accessory tower is a lovely budget friendly solution that is just perfect for keeping all of your odds and ends, your craft supplies, maybe your jewelry, or socks, bathing suits and the like. All I see is drawers galore and I go crazy for organization and orderly goodness! Do you crave this in your lives right now too? Xx… Rayan

Psst… If you like this DIY furniture plan you might also like some of our other easy to build and budget friendly plans for diy storage projects like the Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Dawson Tallboy Dresser or the Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Tribeca Double Storage Case

As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!

You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Shelby Accessory Tower via @thedesconf
  • 7 – 1×2 at 8’
  • 3 – 1×3 at 8’
  • 2 – 1×8 at 8’
  • 3 – 2×2 at 8’
  • 1 – 2×4 at 4’
  • 1 sheet of ¼” plywood
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 1 – 3” trim at 8’
  • Scraps of 1x material at 24”
  • 4 – 2×2 at 42-1/4” – Legs
  • 4 – 2×2 at 11-1/2” – Side Stretchers
  • 2 – 2×4 at 11-1/2” – Side Stretchers
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/2” x 17-7/8” – Side Panels
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/2”x 42-1/4” – Back
  • 9 – 1×2 at 20-1/2” – Stretchers
  • 1 – 2×4 at 20-1/2” – Stretcher
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 24-3/4” – Top
  • 2 – 3” trim at 14-1/2” – Lower Side Trim
  • 1 – 3” trim at 24-1/2” – Lower Front Trim
  • 9 – ¼” plywood at 12” x 19-1/2” – Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 14 – 1×2 at 10-1/2” – Smaller Drawer Frame
  • 14 – 1×2 at 19-1/2” – Smaller Drawer Frame
  • 4 – 1×8 (ripped to 5-3/4” wide) at 10-1/2” – Larger Drawer Frame
  • 4 – 1×8 (ripped to 5-3/4” wide) at 19-1/2” – Larger Drawer Frame
  • 11 – 1×3 at 20-1/4” – Drawer Fronts
  • 2 – 1x material (ripped to 7/8” wide) at 20-1/4” Drawer Fronts

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs, the side stretchers, and the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the side stretchers.

Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of each panel. Secure the stretchers to the panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panels will be flush with the back face of the stretchers.

Secure the side assemblies to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws through the stretchers into the legs, and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the panels into the legs.

Cut the pieces for the back and drill pocket holes in each longer side. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The outside face of the back will be flush with the back face of the legs.

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 2×4 stretcher. Secure the 1×2 stretchers to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Secure the 2×4 stretcher to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the top. The top will overhang by ½” at the sides and front. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the pieces for the trim. No dimension is given for the side pieces – it will depend on if it will be a flush cut or a miter cut. Secure the sides first, then cut and secure the front using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end f the drawer box side pieces. Assemble the drawer frames using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the drawer bottoms and secure them to each frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions locating them ¾” back from the front face of the legs.

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull.

For the larger drawers fronts, start by shimming the lower piece in place with a 1/8” gap between the 1×3 piece and the stretcher. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Place the 7/8” piece above the 1×3 piece with a 1/8” gap, and secure with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Place the remaining 1×3 piece above the 7/8” piece with a 1/8” gap, and secure with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Repeat for the other large drawer.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

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