I promised you all a whole new set of outdoor furniture plans, and by golly that is precisely what you are going to get! Yahoo! We started this off with the gorgeous Free DIY Outdoor Furniture Plans for Building a Crosby Indoor Outdoor Coffee Table and today we continue with plans for building the end table! If you want to take a peak at a few of our most popular outdoor furniture plans to date, this article here covers our Top 10 DIY Outdoor Furniture Plans and Reader Faves! Xx… Rayan
As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig Saw, Circular, Table, or Miter Saw
- Multi-Square and Carpenter’s Square
- Kreg Jig – if you build frequently, invest in this one.
- Nail Gun – optional
- Router with Patterning bit – or bit set – optional
3 – 1×4 at 8′
2 – 2×2 at 8′
- 1-1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws
- 2-1/2″ Pocket Hole Screws
- 1-1/4″ Brad Nails – optional
- 1-1/2” Wood Screws
- Countersink Drill Bit
- Pocket Hole Plugs – Paint Grade, Pine, Oak – optional
- Safety Gear
- Wood Filler
- Wood Glue
- Sanding Supplies
- Paste Wax
- Finishing Supplies
- 6 – 1×4 at 21 3/4″ Top
- 2 – 1×4 at 20 1/4″ Frame
- 2 – 1×4 at 11 1/2″ Supports
- 4 – 2×2 at 20 11/16″ Legs
- 2 – 2×2 at 11 3/4″ Stretchers
- 2 – 2×2 at 17″ Trusses
- 1 – 2×2 at 17 1/4″ Center Rail
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Build out your frame. Use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4″ stock and your 1-1/4” Pocket Hole Screws and Wood glue to secure the pieces together. Use your Clamps to hold the boards together while you secure them and consider letting your glue setup for a bit before you fasten with your screws.
Cut and Fasten your Legs. Your legs will be mitered at 8.2 Degrees Off Center, which is an 81.8 Degree Angle if you Center Mark on your Miter Saw reads as 90 rather than 0. Your cuts will be parallel at both ends. To secure your legs in place, use your countersink bit and 1 1/2″ wood screws and glue.
Attach your Stretchers. These are just a straight cut and will be fastened in place 3″ up from ground level. You can fasten these in place using your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2″ stock and your 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws and glue. You will want to align the front edges of your stretchers with the front edges of your legs, which will cause a bit of overhang on the backside, but will look better.
**Note: If you cut your Center Rail for the next step in advance you may want to attach it to the stretchers and then attach the stretchers to the legs, just to be sure you don’t end up with a piece that is either too long or too short and have to recut or refasten something.
Cut and Attach your Center Rail. Since the previous step leaves a bit of wiggle room, you may want to measure this just before you are ready to attach it and after you have secured your stretchers so you know precisely how long this piece should be. Once you have this piece cut and ready to secure, use your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2″ stock and your 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws and glue to secure from underneath.
Cut and Fasten your Trusses in Place. Cut these at a 20 Degree Angle. Secure in place using your countersink drill bit and 1 1/2″ wood screws and glue from underneath up through the center rail and from above and down through the frame. Since these will sit astride the frame pieces at the top, secure at a slight angle so you don’t accidentially come out the side of your truss.
Fasten your Frame to your Top Boards. Your Top Boards should be spaced 1/4″ apart and the frame should sit 6″ in on either side and 1″ back on the front and back. Secure in place from underneath using your 1 1/4″ Brad Nails and Glue. You can also use screws if you prefer or if you will need to remove the top in the future for any reason.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School