Free DIY Furniture Plans and instructions on How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Slab Round Dining Table. This beauty can be adapted to suit your needs, with modifications to make this build that much more unique. This table is suitable for indoor or outdoor use depending on what you choose to construct it out of and how you finish it (hence the mods). Yahoo!
As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig Saw, Circular, Table, or Miter Saw
- Multi-Square and Carpenter’s Square
- Kreg Jig – if you build frequently, invest in this one.
- Nail Gun
- 1 Sheet 3/4″ Plywood
- 2×4 at 8′
- 2-1/2″ Pocket Hole Screws
- 2-1/2″ Wood Screws
- 1-1/4″ Wood Screws
- Countersink Drill Bit
- Pocket Hole Plugs – Paint Grade, Pine, Oak – optional
- Safety Gear
- 3/4″ Edge Banding – optional
- Wood Filler
- Wood Glue
- Sanding Supplies
- Paste Wax
- Finishing Supplies
- Concrete – if choosing to adapt with a concrete slab top.
- –Mixer Bit
- –Mixing Bags
** Your selection of lumber can be chosen to reflect your particular use. For outdoor use, choose something that will wear well such as redwood or cedar if possible (or finish with a good sealant) and if you plan to finish the table top with concrete, you can choose a relatively inexpensive plywood that isn’t pretty but will get the job done.
- 2 – 48″ Round Circles from 3/4″ Plywood
- 4 – 2×4 at 26 1/2″ – Legs
- 1 – 2×4 at 32 1/2″ – Frame
- 2 – 2×4 at 14 1/2″ – Frame
- 1 – 2×4 at 43 1/2″ – Base
- 2 – 2×4 at 20″ – Base
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
To enlarge the images in this plan, simply click on the image for each step.
Begin by cutting all of your boards to length and drilling your pocket holes if you choose to use a Kreg Jig for construction. Set your jig for 1 1/2″ material and place pocket holes in an unconspicuous location. For the Base pieces these are best at the inside edge of the shorter pieces and facing downward so they aren’t seen. You will not need pocket holes on the legs but you will need them on the Frame pieces in a similar manner as with the Base pieces only you will also need them on the outside edges of the shorter pieces and the outside edges of the long piece. You will probably want to place these facing up so that they are hidden once you attach your table top.
To cut your 48″ rounds you can begin by cutting your sheet of plywood in half so that you have 2 pieces that are 48″ x 48″. Then place a nail in the center (find this by drawing a line from corner to corner on the diagonal) and tie a string around it. Then tie a pencil to the other end so that it is just as long as the distance between your nail and the edge of your plywood (on a flat edge not a corner). Holding your pencil upright, pull your string taught and then draw a circle by simply running it around the outside edge in a circular motion, all the way around. Cut 2 of these out using a jig saw or band saw.
Once you have cut and drilled your pieces, you will lay them out and fasten as you see below in the diagram. You will use glue and 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws to connect all of your pieces or you can use your countersink bit and 2 1/2″ wood screws to fasten the legs to the Frame pieces. I wouldn’t recommend using this method for attaching the shorter Frame pieces to the longer Frame piece if you can help it since you will have to come up and in at an angle and it’s difficult to get your screw sunken deeply enough this way.
We are working from the top down in constructing the base frame of the table so you will flip your base frame over before attaching the table top to it.
Begin this step by attaching the Base Pieces to each other using 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws and glue. Just like in the previous step you will want your pocket holes to be inconspicuous so you will have them facing up if your table looks like mine below. Your pocket holes will be place on the inside of the shorter Base pieces to attach them to the longer Base piece. Then you will place this X shape onto your base frame as shown in the previous step. There will be a 4″ overhang of the Base pieces to the legs.
You will then switch to your countersink bit and predrill down through the Base pieces and into the legs. Then fasten in place using glue and your 2 1/2″ wood screws.
Once your glue has finished setting up and all of your base frame is assembled, you will focus on securing your 2 table top rounds together using glue and 1 1/4″ wood screws in a few select spots. Be sure to countersink for a more finished appearance and just in case you accidentally place a screw where your top meets your base frame.
Then place your base frame onto your 2 table top rounds and attach using your countersink bit to predrill and your 2 1/2″ wood screws. Attach through the Frame pieces in several places all along the length of the frame pieces. Don’t make swiss cheese here, but make sure you have your base frame attached to your table top well enough that it doesn’t come off when you attempt to flip this upright.
The top should overhang the base frame by 6 1/4″ on all sides.
Flip your table upright and either apply edge banding to the table top rounds, fill the edges of your top with wood filler and sand smooth prior to finishing and sealing, or cover the table top with a thin layer of concrete. The idea here would be to simply give it a concrete finish (thin layer) rather than creating an actual concrete table top, which would be extremely heavy and not desirable for this piece. Follow the instructions from the manufacterer of your products for proper directions on the application.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
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