Plans

Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Full Sized Cabin Loft Bed

11.24.14

Equal parts fun and function, this gorgeous bed will make bed time a bit more exciting for the kiddos! A fabulous Handmade Holiday gift that will keep on giving for years after you build this! Plans for this bed in twin can be found here.

As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!

You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Full Sized Cabin Bed Loft via @thedesconf
$300-$400
You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Full Sized Cabin Bed Loft via @thedesconf
  • 22 – 1/2×4 at 8′ (rip down 1/2” plywood if lumber is unavailable)
  • 8 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 3 – 1×4 at 8′
  • 2 – 1×8 at 8′
  • 16 – 2×4 at 8′
  • 3 – 1/2” plywood at 4’x8’
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 4’x8’
  • // Refer to specific steps in this plan before cutting pieces – some pieces are cut with angled ends and their exact measurements may differ from the measurements listed below. Measurements listed below are PRE-BEVEL dimensions and the actual end measurements will change once cut according to specific steps.
  • 4 – 2×4 at 61-3/16” – Post A
  • 4 – 2×4 at 59-1/8” – Post B
  • 3 – 2×4 at 51-1/4” – Side Top Rail, Side Middle Rail, and Side Bottom Rail
  • 3 – 2×4 at 74” – Back Top Rail, Back Middle Rail, and Back Bottom Rail
  • 2 – 2×4 at 74” – Front Top Rail and Front Bottom Rail
  • 4 – 2×4 at 31-3/16” – Roof Rafters
  • 6 – 2×4 at 58-1/4” – Floor Joists
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 48” x 78” – Floor, Left Side
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 10-1/4” x 78” – Floor, Right Side
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 14-1/4” x 78” – Back Wall
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 28-1/2” x 40” – Front Wall
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 14-1/4” x 57-1/4” –Side Bottom Walls
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 18-1/4” x 54-3/16” –Side Top Walls
  • 6 – 1×2 at 7-1/8” – Front Top Trim
  • 6 – 1×2 at 13” – Front Bottom Trim
  • 2 – 1×2 at 38-1/8” – Door Trim
  • 4 – 1×2 at 16-1/2 – Top and Bottom Window Trim
  • 4 – 1×2 at 15” – Side Window Trim
  • 1 – 1×4 at 21” – Stair Hanger
  • 2 – 1×4 at 51-1/4” – Side Ledges
  • 14 – 1×2 at 10-3/4” – Side Bottom Trim
  • 2 – 1×2 at 14-13/16” – Side Top Trim
  • 4 – 1×2 at 10-15/16” – Side Top Trim
  • 4 – 1×2 at 6-9/16” – Side Top Trim
  • 1 – 1×4 at 74” – Back Ledge
  • 9 – 1×2 at 10-3/4” – Back Trim
  • 1 – 1×4 at 83-1/2” – Roof Ridge
  • 6 – 1/2×4 at 83-1/2” – Purlins
  • 42 – 1/2×4 at 37-1/4” – Roof Slats
  • 2 – 1×8 at 31-15/16” – Stair Sides
  • 2 – 1×8 at 18-3/4” – Steps

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

/ Click on Images to expand. If a plan has images that are too hard to read, please let me know and I will reupload the images for easier reference.

Cut the pieces for Posts A and Posts B as shown.

Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material. Drill pocket holes in the long side of Post A as shown. Assemble Post A to Post B as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Repeat this process again, but in a “mirrored” assembly as shown in the image. Built a total of two sets of these “mirrored” Post pairs.

Cut the pieces for the Side Top Rail, Side Middle Rail, and Side Bottom Rail. Drill pocket holes in the ends of all pieces. Assemble pieces as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

Cut the pieces for the Back Top Rail, Back Middle Rail, and Back Bottom Rail. Drill pocket holes in the ends of all pieces. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

Cut the pieces for the Front Top Rail and Front Bottom Rail. Drill pocket holes in the ends of both pieces. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

Cut the pieces for the Rafters. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the pieces (avoid drilling pocket screws in the Ridge notch area). Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

 

Cut the pieces for the Floor Joists. Drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

Cut the piece for the floor. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the piece for the Back Wall. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Set the Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes on the bottom of the Back Wall piece. Assemble as shown with glue – use 1-1/4” brad nails to secure the top and sides and 1-1/4” pocket screws to secure the bottom sides.

Cut the pieces for the Front Wall. Drill pocket holes on the bottoms of the Front Wall pieces. Assemble as shown with glue – use 1-1/4” brad nails to secure the top and sides and 1-1/4” pocket screws to secure the bottom sides.

Cut the pieces for the Side Bottom Walls. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Drill pocket holes on the bottoms of the Side Wall pieces. Assemble as shown with glue – use 1-1/4” brad nails to secure the top and sides and 1-1/4” pocket screws to secure the bottom sides.

Cut the pieces for the Side Top Walls. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the pieces for the Front Trim, Door Trim, Window Trim, and Stair Hanger. Assemble the Front Trim, Door Trim, and Window Trim as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the Stair Hanger and attach with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Cut the pieces for the Side Bottom Trim and Side Bottom Ledges. Attach as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the pieces for the Side Top Trim. Attach as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the pieces for the Back Trim and Back Ledge. Attach as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the piece for the Roof Ridge. Attach as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails, nailed through the Rafters.

Cut the pieces for the Purlins. Attach as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The ends of the Purlins should extend 1-1/4” past the Rafters.

Cut the pieces for the Roof Slats. Attach as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Roof Slats should be spaced 1/2” apart from each other and extend approximately 2” past the Front and Back Rails. The first and last Roof Slats should be flush with the Roof Ridge.

Cut the pieces for the Stair Sides and Steps.

Drill pocket holes in the both ends of the steps. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws – make sure the pocket holes face the ground when assembling. Place on the Stair Hanger as shown and climb on in!

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidental and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Affiliate links are used for tools and materials. The Design Confidential will earn a small commission for any items purchased using these links. Thank you for your support – every little bit counts!

1 comment on “Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Full Sized Cabin Loft Bed”

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *