Plans

Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Toddler Cabin Bed

07.20.17

Make your toddler feel like the king of the wild with this DIY Furniture Plan to Build a Toddler Sized Cabin Bed. This Cabin features 4 lookout windows to keep an eye on all the wildlife, a comfortably pitched roof for lots of headroom and a small staircase just for fun! Build this and maybe your little one will sleep in for a change – or sleep in their own room all night long. If you prefer plans for the Twin Sized Cabin Bed or the Full Sized Cabin Bed, we’ve got you covered!

As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, you can include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!

$200-$250

  • 8 – 1/2×4 (rip down 1/2” plywood if lumber is unavailable) at 8’
  • 3 – 1×2 at 8’
  • 5 – 1×4 at 8’
  • 2 – 1×8 at 8’
  • 10 – 2×4 at 8’
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 4’x8’
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 4’x8’
  • 2 – 2×4 at 49-3/4” – Front Posts
  • 2 – 2×4 at 50-3/4” – Front Frame Top and Bottom
  • 1 – 2×4 at 27” – Front Door Frame
  • 1 – 2×4 at 27” – Front Window Base
  • 2 – 2×4 at 49-3/4” – Back Posts
  • 2 – 2×4 at 50-3/4” – Back Frame Top and Bottom
  • 1 – 2×4 at 50-3/4” – Back Window Base
  • 2 – 2×4 at 49-3/4” – Side Posts
  • 2 – 2×4 at 24” – Side Frame Top and Bottom
  • 1 – 2×4 at 24” – Side Window Base
  • 4 – 2×4 at 31” – Floor Joists
  • 4 – 2×4 at 15-7/16” – Rafters
  • 1 – 2×4 at 63-1/2” – Roof Ridge
  • 4 – 1×2 at 4-13/16” – Side Top Short Trim
  • 2 – 1×2 at 8-11/16” – Side Top Long Trim
  • 6 – 1×2 at 10-3/4” – Side Bottom Trim
  • 6 – 1×2 at 10-3/4” – Back Trim
  • 3 – 1×2 at 10-3/4” – Front Trim
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 31” x 54-3/4” – Floor
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 14-1/4” x 54-3/4” – Back Panel
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 14-1/4” x 32-1/2” – Front Panel
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 13-1/2” x 30” – Top Side Panel
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 14-1/4” x 30” – Bottom Side Panel
  • 1 – 1×4 at 27” – Front Ledge
  • 1 – 1×4 at 50-3/4” – Back Ledge
  • 2 – 1×4 at 24” – Side Ledges
  • 1 – 1×4 at 20-1/4” – Stair Hanger
  • 2 – 1×8 at 31-7/16” – Stair Sides
  • 2 – 1×8 at 18” – Steps
  • 4 – 1×4 at 63-1/2” – Purlins
  • 32 – 1/2×4 at 22” – Roof Slats

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Cut the pieces for the Front Posts, Front Frame Top and Bottom, Front Door Frame, and Front Window Base as shown. With the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes in each end of the Front Frame Top and Bottom, Front Door Frame, and Front Window Base. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

Cut the pieces for the Back Posts, Back Frame Top and Bottom, and Back Window Base as shown. With the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes in each end of the Back Frame Top and Bottom and Back Window Base. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

Cut the pieces for the Side Posts, Side Frame Top and Bottom, and Side Window Frame as shown. With the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes in each end of the Side Frame Top and Bottom and Side Window Base. Additionally, drill pocket holes along the long side of the Side Posts (to later attach to the Front and Back Posts). Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Repeat this step twice, once for each side.

Assemble Side Frames to the Front and Back Frames as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Repeat this step twice, once for each side.

Cut the pieces for the Floor Joists. With the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes in each end of the Floor Joists. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Joists will sit 3/4″ below the top of the Frame Bottoms to accommodate the Floor.

Cut the pieces for the Rafters. With the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of one Rafter and on the non Ridge notch end of the second Rafter (see image of Rafters assembled in place) – avoid drilling pocket screws in the Ridge notch area. Repeat this step twice, once for each side.

Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

Cut the piece for the Roof Ridge. Attach as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails, nailed through the Rafters.

Cut the pieces for the Side Top Short and Long Trim and for the Side Bottom Trim. With the Kreg jig for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in each end of the Trim pieces. The backs of the Trim should be flush with the inside edges of the Frame.  Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. Repeat this step twice, once for each side.

Cut the pieces for the Back Trim. With the Kreg jig for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in each end of the Trim pieces. The backs of the Trim should be flush with the inside edges of the Frame.  Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Cut the pieces for the Front Trim. With the Kreg jig for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in each end of the Trim pieces. The backs of the Trim should be flush with the inside edges of the Frame. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Cut the piece for the Floor. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the piece for the Back Panel. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails to secure all sides.

Cut the piece for the Front Panel. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails to secure all sides.

Cut the pieces for the Top Side Panel and Bottom Side Panel. Assemble as shown with the bottom of the Top Side Panel flush with the bottom of the Side Frame Top and the top of the Bottom Side Panel flush with the top of the Side Window Frame. Assemble with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Repeat this step twice, once for each side.

Cut the pieces for the Front and Back Ledges. Position the Ledges so that the inside edges are flush with the inside edge of the plywood Panels. Attach as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the pieces for the Side Ledges. Position the Ledges so that the inside edges are flush with the inside edge of the plywood Panels. Attach as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.


Cut the piece for the Stair Hanger. With the Kreg jig for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in each end of the Stair Hanger. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.


Cut the pieces for the Stair Sides and Steps.

With the Kreg jig for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in each end of the Steps. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws – make sure the pocket holes face the ground when assembling. Place on the Stair Hanger as shown.

Cut the pieces for the Purlins. Attach as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the pieces for the Roof Slats. Attach as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Roof Slats should be spaced 1/2” apart from each other. The first and last Roof Slats should be flush with the edge of the Roof Ridge. Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School.
With your cabin bed built, it wouldn’t hurt to throw on an anti-tip kit for good measure. Just in case it is your kiddo who is the wild animal – like mine – or the worst case scenario tends to happen to you. Better safe than sorry – always!
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3 comments on “Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Toddler Cabin Bed”

  1. I stumbled across this blog and am so glad I did – this cabin bed is adorable! And seems fairly straight forward to build. Thanks so much for sharing such detailed instructions – I’m going to give this a go as soon as the weather gets better, wish me luck!

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