DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Full Sized House Bed

01.31.17 By //
You Can Build This! The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Full House Bed with Platform + Chimney

At long last, we have the plans for another version of the twin sized house bed playhouse! You all loved the original twin sized version so much that I am rolling out the other requested sizes. Hopefully this will let you build for your purposes! Yahoo…,

Plans for the Original Twin BedToddler House Bed, Toddler Bed Rail, and the Twin with Platform and Chimney

With all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!

  • 11 – 1×4 at 10′ – can sub for 21 – 1×4 at 6′
  • 2 – 2×4 at 8′
  • 2 – 2×4 at 6′
  • 10 – 2×3 at 8′
  • 3 – 2×2 at 6′
  • 21 – 1×4’s at 54″ – Slats
  • 2 – 2×4’s at 76 1/2″ – Lower Side Rails
  • 2 – 2×4’s at 54″ – Head and Foot Rails
  • 4 – 2×3’s at 73 1/2″ – Center and Side Boards
  • 4 – 2×3’s at 48″ – Posts
  • 2 – 2×3’s at 41 3/4″ – Roof
  • 2 – 2×3’s at 40 1/4″ – Roof
  • 2 – 2×3’s at 71 1/2″ – Upper Side Rails
  • 1 – 2×3 at 6 3/4″ – Chimney
  • 1 – 2×3 at 9 3/4″ – Chimney
  • 1 – 2×3 at 4 3/4″ – Chimney
  • 3 – 2×2 at 71 1/2″ – Pitch Rails

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Cut all 6 boards to size and then bevel the 4 posts at a 45° angle, on one end, making sure to keep the length of your original cut. You will be making 2 units here and you can drill your pocket holes in the bottom rails. Set your Pocket Hole Jig for 1 1/2″ material and attach your posts to your Rails using glue and 2 1/2″ Pocket Hole Screws. Your posts will sit with the longer edge on what will be the inside and the same side as your pocket holes.

** When you bevel, you are simply cutting your board at an angle with your board laying flat and your miter saw tilting 45° rather than being turned at a 45° angle as it would be when you miter.

Create your inner frame by cutting your boards to length and attaching them to your Head and Foot Rails. If you prefer for your slats to sit flush with the rails, secure the Center and Side Boards 3/4″ down from the top edge of the Head and Foot Rails and 1/4″ up from the bottom edge. Secure the Center and Side Boards in place using your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2″ material and 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws and glue. Attach the center board first for ease of securing with pocket hole screws and you can place the pocket holes on the outsides of the Side Boards since they won’t be seen.

Now you will attach the 3 units you have built by securing the Side Boards to the Bottom Rails with 2″ wood screws and glue. Use your countersink drill bit to pre-drill for screws that will sit flush with your boards. Since you will secure the Side Boards directly to the Bottom Rails, you can simply glue the Head and Foot Rails to the Side Boards if you wish, but there is no need to worry about securing these with screws or pocket holes to the Leg Units.

Fasten your slats in place using 1 1/4″ brad nails. If you don’t have a nail gun at your disposal, you can opt to use 1 1/4″ wood screws, just be sure to countersink them using your countersink drill bit to pre-drill, and then fasten your screws with a phillips head drill bit. The slats should fit perfectly with no spaces between them, but it would be wise to dry fit just to be sure!

The reason for this is so that you don’t have to move this bed to clean stuff that falls between the slats. It will save you a lot of hassle – promise.

Now for the fun part! This looks so much more complicated than it actually is – promise! Cut your boards to length and note that you will be creating 2 units for the pitch of your roof and that the 2 boards that form one unit are not the same length. One side is going to be 1 1/2″ longer than the other. Once you have them cut to length, bevel one end of each board at 45°. Be sure to keep the length as directed when you do this. Once you have beveled the end of each board, you will create your pitch by securing the straight cut end of one long and one short piece together. Please be sure to set the short piece to the inside edge of the longer piece as you see in the diagram.

Once you have your 2 roof units created, you can secure them to your posts using glue and 2″ wood screws, downward from the top edge of your bevel down into your posts. Be sure to countersink and pre-drill so your screws are flush.

**Note that these pieces will sit flat for beveling as well as when you secure them to create your pitch. The face of your roof boards should match that of your posts and both will have the face side of your board (the 2 1/2″ side) run the length of the bed (the longer sides) rather than the width (the shorter head and foot). This means that when you look at your bed from the side, your boards will appear slightly bigger than they do when you look at your bed from the head or foot, but all should match.

Secure the rails in place using 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws and glue. Cut your rails to length, noting that the top rails that run the between the 2 roof units are 2×2’s while the Upper Side Rails are 2×3’s. The 2×3’s will sit with the face of your boards (the 2 1/2″ side) facing outward. Place pocket holes for 1 1/2″ material on either end of one face of the 2×3’s and secure to the Posts and Roof Units from the inside of your bed. Note that the top edge of your Upper Rails will actually sit flush with the top edge of your roof board bevel. Place your pocket holes for 1 1/2″ material on either end of your 2×2 Pitch Rails and secure one aligned to the very top of the pitch of your roof with the pocket holes on the under side. The remaining rails can be placed about  8″ down from there on either side. The exact location of the lower two pitch rails isn’t critical, just make them level to each other. Place your pocket holes on the underside of your Pitch Rail so they aren’t visible.

This last step is optional, but pretty adorable. To create a chimney, you will simply cut all 3 pieces to length, and then bevel the legs at 45°. Secure all 3 pieces together using 2″ wood screws and glue and be sure your beveled edges face the same direction and note that this chimney unit will also sit with the face of your board (the 2 1/2″ side) sitting the same way your posts and your roof sit (along the sides) with the sides of your board (the 1 1/2″ side) facing the front and back.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired.

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

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16 comments on “DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Full Sized House Bed”

  1. Do you have any recommendations on how to build this in a way that it can be disassembled later. We are likely moving in a little less than a year and I’ll want to take it to our next house.

  2. Wish you had a queen plan ? My kids bedrooms have to double as guest rooms because so much family is always coming in town !!!

    It would be amazing if your posted those dimensions !!!

  3. Hi I was wondering do you have a queen version? If not will you be coming out with dimensions for the queen version? If so when?

    Thanks! This is so AWESOME!!!

  4. Can’t wait to try this project!! How would you adjust this to raise it up a little and say put drawers or cubbies under it?

  5. I followed the instructions and built it. Words of advice: buy good wood! I bought some cheap stuff that was warpused as heck. I ended up needing to plane some pieces so severely they came out significantly different sizes. Anyway, here’s a video of me building it (my modified version anyway). Thanks for the instructions!

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