There is something about miniaturized furniture that is just so adorable. Rather than give you plans for a basic square table, which I am fairly certain many of you might be able to figure out on your own, I thought I might share Construction Plans for this fabulous table with splayed legs, inspired by, Land of Nod's Here There Anywhere Table (allegedly).
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Under $25
- Tape Measure
- Square
- Sander
- Drill
- Saw
- Kreg Jig – Optional
- 5 – 1×3 at 8' – you can elect to use 1×6's (2 at 8', 1 at 6') or ply/mdf for table top (27 1/2 x 27 1/2″) if you prefer, in which case you will only need 1 – 1 x3 at 10' 2 – 2×3 at 8'
- 1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws – if using a Kreg Jig
- 2″ Wood Screws
- Wood Glue
- Wood Filler
- Sandpaper
- Finishing Supplies
- 3 – 1×3 at 22 1/2″ (Frame)
- 2 – 1×3 at 21” (Frame)
- 11 – 1×3 at 27 1/2″ (Table Top)
- 4 – 2×3 at 25” (Legs) – ** you will cut these down with a miter saw, but this measurement gives you room for error.
- 2 – 2×3 at 20″ (Aprons) – ** you will cut these to size with a miter saw, but this measurement gives you room for error.
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Build your frame. Use your pocket holes system to join the boards and place them on the rails (green) on the inside portion of each rail so they remain hidden. Set your system for 3/4″ stock and use 1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws and glue. If you aren't using a Pocket Holes System, use 2″ Screws from the outside of the Stiles (wood colored). You should also create the pocket holes for attaching the table top, while you are still at this stage, if you are using a Pocket Hole jig.
Cut your legs slightly longer than you will actually need. Miter one side at a 4° angle and align with the frame (upside down) along the side on one of the outside rails (green in the image above). The angled cut you just made will sit flush with the frame top and outside edges. While holding your leg as indicated, measure from the ground up, perpendicular to the ground, and up to 22 3/4″ and mark that place on your leg. This marker is the indicator of where you will cut your next 4° angle while keeping your table at an overall height of 23″ after you attach the table top. Your legs should be somewhere in the ballpark of 23 1/16″ in length after you miter both top and bottom. Fasten Legs in place from the inside of the Frame using 2″ Screws and glue.
Cut your aprons to size, as indicated below. Rather than working from my measurements, you should measure to fit your table. Use my measurements below as approximates to guide you. This will be cut at an angle on both sides and it will be easiest to determine your exact angles if you measure the space between the legs at the very top, just under where your table top will sit (19″ is what mine happens to be, the table top is shown here even though you haven't attached yours yet) and at the very top of the leg/frame joint. Then measure the space between the legs at the 2 1/2″ (perpendicular) marker from the first measurement location (mine worked out to 19 1/2″). Connect the dots between those to dimensions, mark out your angle, and cut. Fasten with 2″ Screws and glue, from the inside of the frame.
Fasten your table top as shown. It will be a 27 1/2″ square and should be centered on the frame. Use your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws from underneath or fasten with 2″ Screws from the top, use glue, and be sure to countersink so that no screws protrude onto the play area of the table.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
