This gorgeous piece is one we have already covered plans for, but this is an updated version of those plans using the latest greatest tools and techniques. Hopefully this makes it easier to build, more cost effective and a major enticement to all of you builders out there. I hope one of you tackles this piece quickly… I for one, just can't wait to see it!
- Safety Gear
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Table Saw
- Kreg Jig
- Hammer or Brad nailer
- 2 sheets of ¾” plywood
- 1 sheet of ¼” lauan or hardboard
- 9 – 1×2 at 8’
- 3- 1×3 at 8’
- 5 – 2×2 at 8’
- 1-1/2” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- 1-1/2” brad nails
- 9 – sets of 24” drawer slides
- 15 – drawer pulls
- Wood filler
- Sanding Supplies
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
- 28 – 1×2 at 25” – Side Frames , Side Supports, Top Supports, and Top Frame Assemblies
- 8 – 1×2 at 23-1/2” – Lower Frame Spacers
- 10 – 1×3 at 22-1/2” – Upper & Center Drawer Boxes
- 2 – 1×3 at 26” – Center Drawer Box
- 8 – 2×2 at 25-1/2” – Legs
- 8 – 2×2 at 3-1/4” – Top Frame
- 2 – 2×2 at 25” – Top Frame
- 2 – 2×2 at 80” – Top Frame
- 1 – 28” x 80” – ¾” plywood – Divider
- 1 – 25” x 77” – ¾” plywood – Top
- 24 – 6” x 22-1/2” – ¾” plywood – Lower Drawer Boxes
- 2 – 3” x 23-1/4” – ¾” plywood – Upper Drawer Fronts
- 1 – 3” x 26-3/4” – ¾” plywood – Center Upper Drawer Front
- 12 – 3” x 23-1/4” – ¾” plywood – Lower Drawer Fronts
- 6 – ¾” x 23-1/4” – ¾” plywood – Lower Drawer Spacers
- 8 – 22-1/2” x 24” – ¼” lauan or hardboard – Drawer Bottoms
- 1 – 24” x 26” – ¼” lauan or hardwood – Center Drawer Bottom
- 4 – 21-3/4” x 25” – ¾” plywood – Lower Sides
- 2 – 3-1/4” x 25” – ¾” plywood – Upper Sides
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the 2×2 legs as indicated. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in one end of each these pieces. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill holes at each end in the 1x2s. Construct the side frames as indicated. The pocket holes in the horizontal pieces will face down.
Add the support pieces to the inside of the side frames. These pieces will be flush with the inside faces of the 2×2 legs.
Cut the 1x2s for the lower frame spacers and drill pocket holes at each end. Once again, the pocket holes will face down. Attach the spacers to the sides as indicated with three in the front and one at the lower back.
Cut the 2x2s as indicated for the top frame. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of these pieces. Assemble with the pocket holes facing to the inside.
Cut the 1×2 supports for the top frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes at each end. Attach to the top frame with the spacing as indicated. The bottom of the supports should be flush with the bottom of the frame to allow the top to sit flush.
Cut the 1×2 and 2×2 pieces for the top frame assemblies. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes at each end of the 1x2s. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill holes in one end of the 2×2 pieces. Assemble as shown in the drawing with the holes in the 2x2s facing down as if you will be drilling into something.
Attach the frame assemblies to the bottom of the top frame as indicated. See drawing…
Cut the piece for the divider and attach to the top frame as shown using glue and brad nails. Also cut the upper side pieces. Attach with glue and brad nails from the outside of the frame.
Flip the top frame over and attach to the lower frames as indicated, lining up the legs with the 2×2 supports.
Cut the pieces for the lower sides and attach them to the outside and inside of the side frames with glue and brad nails.
Cut the piece for the top and attach it to the top frame in the same manner as the sides.
Construct the drawer boxes as indicated. There will be two side drawers, one center drawer, and six large drawers. Install the drawer slide hardware. The slides will be located 3/4″ away from the front of the opening to accommodate the drawer front. Do not attach the faces until the drawers have been installed and any adjustments have been made.
Construct the lower drawer fronts as shown. Because the center spacer is so narrow, the pocket holes will need to be staggered so the screws don’t hit each other. For all drawer fronts, pre-drill the holes for the handles. There will be an 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer front. Place the drawer front in the opening and shim in place. Drive screws through the holes for the handles to temporarily hold the front in place. Open the drawer and attach the front to the drawer box from the inside with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handles. I did not include directions for a back panel. For a back panel, cut pieces of ¼” lauan or hardboard and secure to the back with brad nails.
If painting, I like to sand the entire piece with 100 grit, then 220 grit, prime with any latex primer, sand again with 220 grit, and paint. Sanding the primer gives an extra-smooth finish! Finish with water-based polyurethane for added durability.
If staining, sand the entire piece with 60 grit, then 100 grit, then 220 grit. Stain as desired. For the finish, use wipe-on poly or brush-on poly.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.