Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Havana Islita Outdoor Armless Chair! At long last we are bringing this baby BACK! Full frontal fabulousness or something along those lines. Can I get a yahoo? Plans for the Corner Unit and Ottoman as well.
Note: there are 2 options for building these pieces, one using wood and one using nylon strapping. Choose whichever you prefer!
As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!
- 6 – 2×2 at 8’
- 12 – 1×2 at 8’
- 2-1/2″ Pocket Hole Screws
- 1-1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws
- 1-1/4″ Wood Screws
- Chair Webbing – White, Yellow and Black
- Fasteners (clips and screws – if using the webbing option)
- Countersink Drill Bit
- Pocket Hole Plugs – Paint Grade, Pine, Oak – optional
- Safety Gear
- Wood Filler
- Wood Glue
- Sanding Supplies
- Paste Wax
- Finishing Supplies
- 2 – 2×2 at 12” – Angled Back Piece
- 2 – 2×2 at 11” – Front Legs
- 2 – 2×2 at 24” – Back Legs
- 2 – 2×2 at 9-3/4” – Upper Side Stretchers
- 2 – 2×2 at 38” – Lower Side Stretchers
- 5 – 2×2 at 26” – Stretchers
- For the Slat option:
- 5 – 1×2 at 26” – Cleats
- 22 – 1×2 at 26” – Slats
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the angled back. Cut the angle in the top and bottom as shown (approximately 11 degrees). Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces.
Cut the pieces for the legs and the side stretchers. Drill pocket holes in the stretchers as shown. Assemble the side frames using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the longer stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown and secure using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the shelf slats. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front face of the slats will be flush with the top face of the frame.
If using the webbing, attach the webbing to the frame according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
If using the slats, continue as follows:
Cut the pieces for the back slats and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front face of the slats will be flush with the outside face of the frame.
Cut the pieces for the cleats. Drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the seat slats. Position the slats with approximately 1” spacing between them. Secure to the cleats using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.