- 6 – 2×2 at 8’
- 12 – 1×2 at 8’
- 2-1/2″ Pocket Hole Screws
- 1-1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws
- 1-1/4″ Wood Screws
- Chair Webbing – White, Yellow and Black
- Fasteners (clips and screws – if using the webbing option)
- Countersink Drill Bit
- Pocket Hole Plugs – Paint Grade, Pine, Oak – optional
- Safety Gear
- Wood Filler
- Wood Glue
- Sanding Supplies
- Paste Wax
- Finishing Supplies
- 3 – 2×2 at 12” – Angled Back Piece
- 1 – 2×2 at 11” – Front Legs
- 3 – 2×2 at 24” – Back Legs
- 2 – 2×2 at 9-3/4” – Upper Side Stretchers
- 2 – 2×2 at 38” – Lower Side Stretchers
- 6 – 2×2 at 38” – Stretchers
- 1 – 2×2 at 26” – Stretcher
- 1 – 2×2 at 28-1/4” – Stretcher
- For the Slat option:
- 7 – 1×2 at 38” – Longer Shelf Slats
- 7 – 1×2 at 28-1/4” – Shorter Shelf Slats
- 10 – 1×2 at 28-1/4” – Back Slats
- 5 – 1×2 at 26” – Cleats
- 10 – 1×2 at 26” – Slats
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the angled back. Cut the angle in the top and bottom as shown (approximately 11 degrees). Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces. There will be a right and a left!
Cut the pieces for the legs and the side stretchers. Drill pocket holes in the stretchers as shown. Assemble the side frames using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the center back piece. This piece will be a little tricky in that the angles need to be cut from edge to edge instead of side to side in order for it to be positioned correctly. Drill pocket holes in each end and position as shown. Secure using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the shelf slats. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front face of the slats will be flush with the top face of the frame.
If using the webbing, attach the webbing to the frame according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
If using the slats, continue as follows:
Cut the pieces for the back slats. Cut them all the longer length, and cut the 11 degree angle in one end. (There will be five right slats and five left slats) There will be approximately 1” between the slats. Starting with the upper pieces, drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Mark the position for the next slats and cut them to length. Drill pocket holes in each end of the slats then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket holes. Continue in this manner for the remaining slats.
Cut the pieces for the cleats. Drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the seat slats. Position the slats with approximately 1” spacing between them. Secure to the cleats using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
7 comments on “Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Havana Islita Outdoor Corner Chair”
Is there a PDF for this furniture set? None of the images show up. Thanks.
I will get them fixed for you right now! stay tuned just a few minutes!
thank you very much
Looks like its all back … If its not too much trouble could you please put the armless version back up?
of course! one without the other isn’t much use – eh? it will be a few hours for the second piece though – have to run out for a bit!