Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Indoor Outdoor Belvedere Large Sofa. I love anything that even moderately resembles outdoor furniture and I love the idea of using those pieces inside as well. I mean, why not? It’s not everyday we can build our own sofa, yet when we get to focus on outdoor pieces, it’s no problem. Why not use these beauties for either? With some comfy cushions, this baby will go the distance, don’t you think? I say yes! Xx… Rayan
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Countersink Bit for Drill
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
- 1 – 1×2 at 8’
- 1 – 1×2 at 4’
- 9 – 1×4 at 8’
- 6 – 1×6 at 8’
- 2 – 1×8 at 8’
- 1 – 1×8 at 6’
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 2-1/2” screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Wood filler
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
- 4 – 1×2 at 4-1/4” – Side Feet
- 4 – 1×2 at 5” – Front & Back Feet
- 2 – 1×8 at 36-1/2” – Side Base Frame
- 2 – 1×8 at 78” – Side Base Frame
- 4 – 1×6 (ripped to 4-1/2” wide) at 36-1/2” – Cleats
- 1 – 1×2 at 76-1/2” – Back Frame Support
- 4 – 1×6 (ripped to 4-1/2” wide) at 22-3/4” – Back Frame
- 12 – 1×6 (ripped to 4-1/2” wide) at 19-1/2” – Back Slats
- 8 – 1×4 at 76-1/2” – Seat Slats
- 1 – 1×4 (ripped to 2-1/4” wide) at 76-1/2” – Front Seat Slat
- 2 – 1×6 (ripped to 4-1/2” wide) at 36-5/8” – Arms
- 2 – 1×6 (ripped to 4-1/2” wide) at 9-1/4” – Arms
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the feet and the base frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes along one long edge of each foot, as well as each end of the side base frame pieces. Attach the longer feet to each end of the front and back frame pieces, and the shorter pieces to the side frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Assemble the frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the cleats and drill pocket holes at each end. Position the cleats so they are ¾” down from the top edge of the frame, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the back frame support. Rip a 5 degree bevel along one edge for the angle of the back. Position as shown (with the bevel facing out, shorter area on top) then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the support into the cleats.
Cut the pieces for the back frame. Cut a 5 degree bevel in the bottom of each vertical piece. Drill pocket holes in the front side of the beveled end. Also drill pocket holes in each end of the slat pieces. Position the slats as shown with ½” spacing between them, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Position the back frame on the cleats with the back edge resting against the support. Secure with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the frame legs into the cleats, then insert a couple of 2-1/2” screws per leg through the front into the support.
Cut the pieces for the seat slats. Rip a 5 degree bevel in one edge of one of the slat pieces. This piece will sit flush against the back to help support it in place. Secure this piece to the cleats using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Secure the remaining slats with ½” spacing between them and with the narrow slat at the very front using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the arms. Cut the notch in one end of each longer arm piece using a jigsaw or bandsaw. Drill pocket holes as shown. Also drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter arm pieces. Assemble in an “L” shape, noting that there will be a left and a right then secure to the sofa using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.