I actually wanted to add a ‘woot woot’ to the title, but I figured I would restrain myself and show a bit of composure here, you know… like a lady and all. Right. So we are beginning to roll out our mods to some of the popular pieces that many of you have requested we adjust. These mods will accommodate some much less expensive, standard sized and much more readily available cushion options. You guys, I couldn’t agree more that this is much needed but honestly until recently not many of the retailers have graced us with a variety of cushion options that are inexpensive, mix and match and not custom to a specific piece of their own furniture lines. So of course, once the build is all said and done, it’s the dang cushions that either stump you or set you back a pretty penny. Well, thank you to the Targets Home Depots, and IKEAs of the world for hearing our DIY prayers, am I right?
Each furniture collection and piece will likely have an option or two that work most easily with it according to it’s size and shape. I’m hoping for the path of least resistance here my friends and the lowest cost possible. The Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Reef Sofa and Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Reef Chair have quickly become two of our most popular builds (take a peak through our Showcase Gallery and our hashtag #builtTDCtuff and you will see) so I’m starting with these…
We have also finished the Free DIY Furniture Plans for Building an Outdoor Reed Sofa with Modifications for Cushions from Target ! Now we have a set!
As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!
- 4 – 2×4 at 8’
- 4 – 1×4 at 8’
- 4 – 2×4 at 27 1/4” – Legs
- 2 – 2×4 at 33 3/4” – Side Frames
- 2 – 2×4 at 36 3/4” – Top
- 1 – 2×4 at 29” – Top
- 2 – 2×4 at 22” – Seat Support
- 1 – 2×4 at 22” (ripped to 2-3/4” wide) – Seat Support
- 3 – 1×4 at 24” – Seat Slats
- 8 – 1×4 at 14-3/4” – Side Slats
- 3 – 1×4 at 16-3/4” – Back Slats
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 33 3/4” piece as well as the top only of the legs. Assemble using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the top. Cut 45 deg. angles in each end of the short piece as well as one end of the long pieces (there will be a left and right). Drill pocket holes in the mitered ends and assemble with glue and 2” pocket hole screws. Place on the side assemblies and attach using glue and 2” pocket hole screws through the top of the legs into the top piece.
Cut the pieces for the seat supports. The center support will be a 2×4 ripped to 2-3/4” wide and will be located ¾” down from the top of the side stretcher piece to allow for the seat slats. Attach all pieces at the spacing indicated (with the front piece flush with the front of the side frame) to the side frames using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the seat slats. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the seat supports using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Secure the center of the slats to the center of the support with 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the side slats. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the side frames at the spacing indicated with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School