So in all of my genius glory it appears that I posted the armless unit for this fab reef sectional sofa, and then forgot to draft plans for the corner unit. Yahoo. Well today we rectify that crazy and we give you… wait for it… the corner unit! I bet you weren’t going to guess that, eh? What say you? Do you prefer your sectional sofas with all working parts and plans? Thought you might…
To view the other plan for this pair and to build an actual sectional sofa, you will want to visit the plan for the Reef Armless Unit and the cushion options here that will work best are the Outdoor Deep Seating Cushions which retails for $29 and two or three 18″ toss pillows for the back. Alternatively you might also use a cushion like this for the seat which retails for $19 and would help cut cost in a large quantity but it is decidedly less boxy than the other for sure, so this is a style and budgetary choice that can be made and it is yours to make my friends!
As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram or @thedesconf on twitter so I am sure to see it!
- 2 – 1×4 at 8’
- 4 – 2×4 at 8’
- 5 – 2×4 at 27-1/4” – Back Legs and Corner Back Leg
- 2 – 2×4 at 28-1/4” – Sides
- 1 – 2×4 at 12-1/2” – Front Leg
- 2 – 2×4 at 33-1/4” – Tops
- 1 – 2×4 at 26-1/4” – Front Apron
- 1 – 2×4 at 20-1/2” – Seat Support
- 1 – 2×4 at 6-1/4” – Seat Support Extension
- 1 – 2×4 at 20-1/2” (ripped down to 2-3/4” wide) – Center Seat Support
- 3 – 1×4 at 20-1/2” – Seat Slats
- 6 – 1×4 at 16-3/4” – Back Slats
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for two of the Back Legs, the Front Leg, and Sides. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the Sides and in the tops of the Back Legs. For one side of the chair, assemble the Back Leg, Front Leg, and Side as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. For the other side of the chair, assemble the Back Leg and Side as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the two Tops, the Corner Back Leg, the remaining two Back Legs, and the Front Apron. With the Kreg jig set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of the Front Apron and in the top end of the Corner Back Leg. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
With the Kreg jig still set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes in the top ends of the two remaining Back Legs. Assemble the other Top to the two remaining Back Legs as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Assemble the pieces as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Attach the second Top to the Corner Back Leg with 2-1/2” wood screws, if needed (depending on where you drilled the pocket holes on the Corner Back Leg, you may need additional reinforcement).
Cut the pieces for the Center Seat Support, the Seat Support, and the Seat Support Extension. The Center Support will be a 2×4 ripped down to 2-3/4” wide and will be located 3/4” down from the top of the Sides to allow for the Seat Slats. With the Kreg jig set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of the Center Seat Support, Seat Support, and Seat Support Extension. Assemble as shown with glue and 2 1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the Seat Slats. Set the Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the Seat Slats. Attach the Seat Slats to the Seat Support and Front Apron with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Secure the Seat Slats to the Center Seat Support with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the Back Slats. The angles may be a little tricky but they should be cut at approximately 25 degrees. (see drawing). Once the angles are cut, set the Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in both ends of each Back Slat. Attach to the Seat Support and Top with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School