We shared plans for the stove and oven, and today the refrigerator, yahoo! We are well on our way to a full functioning gourmet kitchen!
As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!
- 1 – 1×3 at 8′
- 2 sheets of 1/2″ plywood or mdf
- 1/2 sheet of 1/4″ plywood or luann
- 1″ Pocket Hole Screws
- Pocket Hole Plugs – Paint Grade, Pine, Oak – optional
- 1″ Brad Nails or 1″ Wood Screws
- 2 – small hinges
- 1 – Drawer/Cabinet Pull
- Countersink Drill Bit
- Pocket Hole Plugs – Paint Grade, Pine, Oak – optional
- Safety Gear
- Edge Banding – optional
- Wood Filler
- Wood Glue
- Sanding Supplies
- Paste Wax
- Finishing Supplies
- 4 – 1×3 at 17″ – Kick Plate and Supports
- 3 – 1/4″ Plywood or Luann at 18″ x 1 1/2″ – Vent
- 2 – 1/4″ Plywood or Luann at 13″ x 2 1/2″ – Door Trim
- 2 – 1/4″ Plywood or Luann at 24 7/16″ – Door Trim
- 2 – 1/2″ Plywood or Mdf at 36 1/2″ x 14 1/4″ – Side Panels
- 3 – 1/2″ Plywood or Mdf at 17″ x 14 3/4″ – Bottom and Shelves
- 1 – 1/2″ Plywood or Mdf at 18″ x 4 1/2″ – Vent Board
- 1 – 1/2″ Plywood or Mdf at 29 7/16″ x 18″ – Door
- 1 – 1/2″ Plywood or Mdf at 17″ x 36 1/2″ – Back
- 1 – 1/2″ Plywood or Mdf at 18″ x 15″ – Top
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut your side panels to size and using a jig saw or circular saw (or plunge router or table saw) notch out a small rectangle in the lower corner of your panel. You will need two of these and they should mirror each other. If your plywood or mdf has a face side to it, you will want to pay attention to that so that you have the corner notched out of what will be the front facing section of your side panel.
Attach your kick plate, upper supports, and your lower back support using your Kreg Jig set for 1/2″ material and your 1″ pocket hole screws and glue. Place your pocket holes on the inside so they aren’t seen, and set your kick plate to be flush with the front facing edge of your notch and it will sit inside of your side panels. The upper and lower back support will sit 1/2″ back from the back edge.
Fasten your bottom in place using your nail gun and 1 1/4″ brad nails or your countersink bit with 1 1/4″ wood screws and glue. For the remaining two shelves set your Kreg Jig set for 1/2″ material with your 1″ pocket hole screws and glue. You can place the 2 upper shelves wherever you see fit, this will depend on how your kiddos want to arrange their fridge and the type of things they will put in it! Just keep in mind that the vent will hang down about 4 1/2″ from the top so this will change how high the top shelf seems. I have put the shelves in place with some dimensions that will work, but feel free to change it if you like!
Cut your vent board to size and fasten to the upper front support using your nail gun and 1″ brad nails and glue. You can use 1″ wood screws and your countersink bit or simply glue this in place if neither of the previous options work for you. This will sit flush with the top edge of your side panels. Then simply nail and glue the trim pieces directly over the top of the vent board.
Cut your door to size and simply glue on the trim in much the same way you did for the vent board. Hang your door as you would might for a simple cabinet door with your hinges along one side (right or left) and follow manufacturer instructions to do this. You should leave 1/8″ between the vent and the top of the door for easy opening and closing.
Attach the back using 1″ brad nails or 1″ wood screws and glue.
Fasten the top in place using 1″ brad nails and glue or 1″ screws if necessary. The top will sit flush on all 4 sides.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School