By special reader request, and a perfect addition to the Reef Collection of pieces, today we have Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Armless Chair for the Reef Outdoor Sectional Sofa! This can use the same cushions as our modified reef chair plans call for, only they will need to be turned sideways for this piece! Since they are virtually square, this won’t matter at all. The cushion options here that will work best are the Outdoor Deep Seating Cushions which retails for $29 and two or three 18″ toss pillows for the back. Alternatively you might also use a cushion like this for the seat which retails for $19 and would help cut cost in a large quantity but it is decidedly less boxy than the other for sure, so this is a style and budgetary choice that can be made!
We will cover the plans for a corner unit in the next few days, and together the two pieces can form a gorgeous sectional sofa with any arrangement you like! Xx… Rayan
For plans from the other pieces in this collection, see our Free DIY Furniture Plans for Building an Outdoor Reed Sofa with Modifications for Cushions from Target and the matching Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Outdoor Reef Chair with Modifications for Cushions from Target. We also have the fabulous originals and The Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Reef Sofa and Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Reef Chair
- 2 – 2×4 at 8’
- 1 – 2×4 at 6′
- 1 – 1×4 at 8’
- 1 – 1×4 at 6’
- 2-1/2″ Pocket Hole Screws
- 1-1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws
- 2-1/2″ Wood Screws
- 1-1/4″ Brad Nails
- Pocket Hole Plugs – Paint Grade, Pine, Oak – optional
- Safety Gear
- Wood Filler
- Wood Glue
- Sanding Supplies
- Paste Wax
- Finishing Supplies
- 2 – 2×4 at 27 1/4” – Legs
- 2 – 2×4 at 28 1/4” – Side Frames
- 2 – 2×4 at 12 1/2″ – Front Legs
- 1 – 2×4 at 24” – Top
- 1 – 2×4 at 17″ – Front Apron
- 1 – 2×4 at 21” – Seat Support
- 1 – 2×4 at 21” (ripped to 2-3/4” wide) – Center Seat Support
- 3 – 1×4 at 20 1/2” – Seat Slats
- 3 – 1×4 at 16-3/4” – Back Slats
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 28 1/4” piece as well as the top only of the legs. Assemble using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. The Front Leg will sit perpendicular to the Side Frame piece (28 1/4″ piece) and flush with the outside of this piece as well so they will form a 90 degree angle.
Cut the piece for the top and the Front Apron. Drill pocket holes in both ends of the Front Apron using your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2″ stock and assemble with glue and 2 1/2” pocket hole screws. Place the Top on the legs and secure with glue and 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws using the pocket holes you created in the previous step.
Cut the pieces for the seat supports. The center support will be a 2×4 ripped to 2-3/4” wide and will be located ¾” down from the top of the side frame piece to allow for the seat slats and flush with the bottom of the other seat support and the side frame pieces. Attach the pieces to the side frames using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the seat slats. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the back seat support using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Secure the center of the slats to the center seat support with 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the back slats. The angles may be a little tricky but they should be cut at approximately 25 deg. (see drawing). Once the angles are cut, drill pocket holes in the end of each slat. Attach to the back support and top with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links
6 comments on “Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Armless Chair for the Reef Outdoor Sectional Sofa”
I made this except it was 36 inches across instead of 24 inches and it looks pretty decent.
A note if you can tell from the picture, I didn’t follow step 3. My 2×4 wasn’t ripped at all since I didn’t know how to do it at home depot. Instead I used the un-ripped wood and put it horizontal (flat) and put in 2 screws into the seat support wood.
Also I didn’t have a Kreg jig. Instead I drilled around 1/4 inch deep, then changed the angle to about 15 degrees and made a 15 degree drill hole into the wood. Kind of a pocket hole using a regular drill and it works for me.
picture of a bare chair, only wood and screws
picture of the chair with some cloth covering and bottom cushion. The back cushion is a work in progress and will hopefully be done in a few days.
Is the lumber that you use treated? Or can you use untreated as long as you seal it with a outdoor stain/weatherproofing?
I tend to steer away from pressure treated wood. Sealing your wood will help tremendously and if it is in the budget, choosing a species like Cedar, Redwood or Teak will get the job done.