Plans

Free Woodworking Plans to Build a Viva Terra Inspired Vintage Fir 3 Drawer Dresser

07.04.10
Project Image

This 3 Drawer Dresser is part of the Vintage Fir Collection, and I am just smitten with it’s chunky edges and platform base.

It would be a fabulous addition to any room needing storage, regardless of the other pieces already in the room. It’s clean lines and unimposing size make this a great piece for anyone. As a grouping with the other pieces in the collection, well… just see for yourself…

Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Drill
  • Saw
  • Table Saw or Miter Saw – or circular saw to Bevel
  • Router – optional hand grip indentation along bottom of drawer facing.
Lumber
  • 1 – 1×3 at 10′
  • 1 – 1×3 at 8′
  • 2 – 2×12 at 10′
  • 2 – 2×12 at 6′
  • 1 – 1×8 at 12′
  • 1 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 4 Sheets- 3/4″ Plywood at 4’x8′
Materials
  • 2″ Screws
  • 1 1/4″ Screws
  • Wood Glue
  • Wood Filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Finishing Supplies
  • 3/4″ Edge Banding for the Face of the Shelves.
  • Iron – for applying the edge banding. You can generally just use a standard iron.
Cut List

6 – 1×3 at 17 1/2″ (Base Frame)

2 – 1×3 at 47″ (Base Frame)

4 – 2×12 at 50″ (Top and Bottom Exterior Perimeter)

4 – 2×12 at 33″ (Side Panels Exterior Perimeter)

4 – 1×2 at 21″ (Cleats)

3 – 1×8 at 47″ (Drawer Faces)

2 – 3/4″ Ply at 47×21″ (Top and Bottom Interior Box)

2 – 3/4″ Ply at 28 1/2″ x 21″

1 – 3/4″ Ply at 47×30″ (Back)

2 – 3/4″ Ply at 45 1/2 x 21″ (Shelves)

4 – 3/4″ Ply at 45 1/2 x 8 1/2″ (Bottom Drawers – Front and Back)

4 – 3/4″ Ply at 19 1/2 x 7 3/4″ (Bottom Drawers – Sides)

2 – 3/4″ Ply at 45 1/2 x 7 3/4″ (Top Drawer – Front and Back)

2 – 3/4″ Ply at 19 1/2 x 7″ (Top Drawer – Sides)

3 – 3/4″ Ply at 45 1/2 x 19 1/2″ (Drawer Bottoms

Instructions

** I have designed this project so that you can merely glue the panels together and the Interior Box Frame will actually act to fasten and hold the Outside Boards in place. This project should be very easy to complete.

** Because we are skipping the drawer track hardware I have
designed the actual drawers themselves to fit very snugly inside their casings, so you may need to sand them down the tiniest bit to allow for ease of opening and closing.

** You have the option of using a Router along the bottom edge of each Drawer Face for creating a hand hold for opening and closing the drawers more easily as well. If you don’t have this tool and don’t care to rent one, you will not suffer for it, and this piece will be just as
beautiful.

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!

Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.

Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1
Step 1

Build the Frame for the Base: Use 2″ Screws and Wood Glue or your Kreg Jig.

Step 2
Step 2

Bevel the outside edges of each pair of Perimeter Boards at 45 Degrees: Glue each pair together.

Step 3
Step 3

Using the underside of the Top Pair of Perimeter Boards as a Base, build your Interior Box: Use 2″ Screws and Wood Glue.

Step 4
Step 4

Fasten the Cleats to the Interior Box at the dimensions shown below: Use 1 1/4″ Screws and wood glue.

Step 5
Step 5

Attach the Back of the Dresser: Use 2″ Screws and Wood Glue

Step 6

Attach the Side Panels: Use 2″ Screws and Wood Glue, fasten from the inside.

Step 7
Step 7

Attach the Base Pair of Boards to the Base Frame: Use 2″ Screws and Wood Glue.

Step 8
Step 8

Turn the Main Component over and fasten to the Base Panel and Frame. Use 2″ Screws and Wood glue. The mitered edges should align perfectly.

Iron on 3/4″ Edge Banding to the front of the shelves. Choose a type that matches your Exterior Boards.

Insert the Shelves: Fasten to the cleats and the Back using 2″ Screws and Wood Glue.

Step 9
Step 9
Step 9

Build the drawers using the measurements shown above. The top drawer will be a different size than the bottom 2 drawers, however all of the Drawer Faces will be the same.

Notice how the boards fit together, and their placement, in the images below. Build the Drawer first, then attach the Drawer face from the inside.

The bottom of the drawer face is flush with the bottom of the drawer. Use 2″ Screws and Wood glue for the Drawer and 1 1/4″ Screws for attaching the drawer face. The Drawer Face will have a 3/4″ Overhang on either side of the Drawer itself.

Top Drawer:

Step 10
Step 10

Bottom Drawers:

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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Plans

Free Woodworking Plans to Build a Low Rolling Activity Table

06.27.10
Project Image

This project kicks off a whole new set of fun! While I was doing some inspiration seeking for this series of kiddo furniture, I remembered something from my own child hood. When I was about 10 or 11, I picked out a bedroom set that was modular furniture with all sorts of storage and rearranging options. For me and my A-type personality, this was the most amazing fun.

I would sit for hours trying to decide on the most perfect organization for my stuff (ok, so I was the strangest 10 year old known to man, but design has ALWAYS been in my blood) and how best to set up vignettes of all of my pretty things and toys for display. I never did much playing with toys for me it was always about how they would look out on display and arranged with other things.

Alright so as I put this in type, I am realizing just how truly weird I might have been (still am?)! But, the point remains… I found some fabulous inspiration for toddler to young adult rooms that will keep your kiddos happy for hours on end, and allow them the fabulous creativity of designing their own lives just as I was able to do! This is just one piece of the pie. I will be creating dozens more over time and you (and perhaps your child) can determine which you like best and which fit your lifestyle needs most.

I want bold and fun colors people! If you aren’t sure how to pull that off, send me an email, I respond quickly (unlike other bloggers I know…ahem!) and I am glad to put my passion to work! Bold and fun are well balanced with neutral and sophisticated colors. I am not talking primary colors folks…let’s just pretend that is a thing of the past, shall we?

Here is the activity table with the simple floating display shelves and a few extra cube shelves which I will share later with an explanation on how to make this kid safe:

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Tools

  • Tape Measure
  • Square
  • Sander – or a Sanding Block.
  • Saw – to cut your pieces to size.
  • Drill

Lumber

  • 1 – Sheets of 3/4″ MDF
  • A sheet is typically 4’x8′.
  • 2 – 1×3 @ 10′ or 3 – @ 8′

Materials

  • ** Optional – Qty 6 – 2″ Casters – plastic will work fine or you can purchase casters with a break as well, to hold the table in place when desired.
  • #6 – 2″ Coarse Thread Screws (or drywall screws)
  • #6 – 1 1/4″ Coarse Thread Screws (or drywall screws)
  • Wood Glue
  • Wood Filler 
  • Sanding Supplies
  • Spackle or Iron on Edge Banding
  • Finishing Supplies

Cut List

  • Note: If this table is too large for your space, you can alter the length or width of it. Just make sure to allow for that in the remainder of your cuts. **If you plan to add casters, consider altering (lowering) the height of the Cubes and the Legs by 3 1/2″ or so to keep this table low enough for young children. If your kiddos are older this is likely not necessary.
  • 2 – 3/4″ Sheet of MDF @ 12 x 30″ (Top & Bottom of Cubes)
  • 2 – 3/4″ Sheet of MDF @ 14 5/8 x 12″ (Front Cube Sides)
  • 2 – 3/4″ Sheet of MDF @ 12 x 12″ (Back Cube Sides)
  • 1 – 3/4″ Sheet of MDF @ 30 x 36″ (Top)
  • 4 – 1×3 @ 28 1/2″ (Top and Bottom of the Leg and Sides of Trim for Table Top)
  • 2 – 1×3 @ 13 1/2″ (Sides – Leg)
  • 2 – 1×3 @ 37 1/2″ (Table Top Trim – Front and Back)

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Build the Leg and Bottom and Sides of Cubes: Use 2″ Screws and Glue. The outside of the Leg and Cubes will sit 3′ apart from outside edge to outside edge. The dimensions are shown below.

Step 2

Attach the Top to the cubes: Use 2″ Screws and Glue.

Step 3

Attach the Table Top to the Leg and Cubes: Use 2″ Screws and Glue.

Step 4

Attach the Trim to the Table Top allowing it to extend 1″ above the top of the table top. This will create a lip to keep those toys and fun contained! Use 1 1/4″ Screws and Glue.

Step 5

If you plan to add casters, you can add them as indicated by the circles below.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Plans

Free Woodworking Plans to Build Vertical Cube Shelving Built Ins

06.09.10
Project Image

I figure most of you can figure out how to build cube shelving…so I assure you that is not what we are going to do today! I am modifying the “typical” cube shelving so that it might be attached to the wall and trimmed out for decorative purposes. Let’s face it folks… if it isn’t nailed to the wall, it is going to be climbed on and WILL fall over and land on your child…or your cat…or you? We know what you do when we aren’t looking…stop climbing the walls!

This is really easy to build, extremely budget friendly, and because it is broken down into cubes instead of longer sections, you can modify this in any way you like. Add another on top, a second row adjacent to this, maybe even a 3rd? The possibilities are endless, even a pyramid shape will work! The only question is how much storage do you need? and how large is your space? I will provide the buying guide for 1 cube and then for the 3 that I have done in this plan. This will give you the ability to adjust as needed.

$50-$75

  • Tape Measure
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Saw – to cut your pieces to size.
  • Drill
  • Pneumatic Nailer (Nail Gun) or Finish Nail Set and Hammer.
  • Wood (MDF): (for 3 cubes)
  • 2 – Sheets of MDF at 4′ x 8′
  • 5 – 1×2 at 10′
  • 1 – 1×2 at 6′
  • 2″ Coarse Thread Screws (or drywall screws)
  • 1 1/4″ Coarse Thread Screws (or drywall screws)
  • 2″ Finish Nails
  • Wood Glue
  • Wood Filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Spackle
  • Finishing Supplies

1 Cube: (the measurements change considerably for the trim if you do multiple cubes see below)

  • 2 – 11/16″ (3/4″ equivalent) MDF at 18 x 18″ (Sides)
  • 2 – 11/16″ MDF at 16 1/2 x 18″ (Top and Bottom)
  • 2 – 1×2 at 16 1/2″ (Cleats)
  • 2 – 1×2 at 15″ (Front Trim)
  • 6 – 1×2 at 18″ (Front and Side Trim)
  • 4 – 1×2 at 15 3/4″ (Side Trim)

3 Cubes:

  • 6 – 11/16″ (3/4″ equivalent) MDF at 18 x 18″ (Sides)
  • 6 – 11/16″ MDF at 16 1/2 x 18″ (Top and Bottom)
  • 6 – 1×2 at 16 1/2″ (Cleats)
  • 4 – 1×2 at 15″ (Front Trim)
  • 6- 1×2 at 54″ (Front and Side Trim)
  • 8 – 1×2 at 15 3/4″ (Side Trim)

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Build your Cubes: Notice that the sides are the longer pieces and the top and bottom are shorter, this is too allow for less of a seam on the outsides when you are finished stacking. Use 2″ Screws and Glue.

Attach the cleats to the backside. Use 2″ Screws and Glue or your Kreg Jig and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Step 3

Stack and attach to each other. Use 1 1/4″ Screws and Glue.

Trim out the Front of your unit: Use 2″ Finish Nails and Glue for the least amount of touch up. You can also build the face frame using your Kreg Jig and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and then nail the face frame unit in place as a whole.

Trim out the sides: Use 2″ Finish Nails and Glue or you kreg jig to create a face frame (this means attach the trim pieces together) using 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue and then nail onto the sides as a single trim unit.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

If you enjoyed this post, comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Design / DIY

Nursery Needed Yesterday Mood Board

06.03.10
Project Image

Might I just say that doing a nursery design plan was oh so very fun and exciting. My little one is 3 1/2 and I can’t believe the amazing new gear they have come out with, just since his birth. Trust me when I say it’s enough to make me think my second child may be in the works, sooner rather than later (maybe).

When Marilyn sent me some pictures of a media cabinet she recently finished, using my Finishing School Tutorials, I had the chance to hear her story, and it broke my heart! She mentioned that they were in the process of finishing their home, which was being built for the second time, and constructing some of their furniture pieces, because they lost most of their belongings (if not all) in a fire. She was 6 months pregnant with her second child at the time and had to scramble to find living quarters for her family, 2 large German Shepard doggies, and a 3rd pup. I am surprised she was even able to accomplish that! Good thing she doesn’t live in CA, that would have been almost impossible!

Now that their home is well underway, they are frantically trying to wrap up loose ends before their 3rd little one is to arrive in the next month or so… That’s right, she is 8 months pregnant with her 3rd and in need of a proper nursery for the soon – to – be arriving, bouncing baby boy! I hope they finish the bathrooms before he arrives, that would be extremely inconvenient, would it not?

She has given me some descriptions of her sense of style, and wouldn’t you know (though she wasn’t completely aware of this) it fits some of my favorite aspects of Farmhouse style to a T. She sent me some images of fabric styles she has purchased, and well, they are swoon worthy! She is planning on sewing curtains, sheets, laundry hamper, boppy cover, etc. You know I am a huge fan of DIY and Handmade anything, assuming it has the benefit of being safer, more organic, or less expensive!

Let’s get down to business, after all she doesn’t’ have much time left!

Here’s the design plan:

I really did have so much fun doing this. Can’t wait to buy some fun new baby gear for myself! Though not just yet… I would like to say that I looked, and I looked, and I looked for fish…and I only found birds…? Go figure. Or go fish? Either way, the items I have used in this plan are really meant as a visual tie in to the fabrics she has purchased already. They are of similar colors and can be substituted for any of the items she is planning on making, should she decide she isn’t in the mood to make and prefers to purchase. Below the linky I am only going to discuss certain items that need description to explain my thoughts. Overall: I love the medium tones floors of this room and the beautiful wood color chosen, I think a dark walnut along with bits of white would be a fabulous addition. I am hoping she will refinish the crib in a walnut color…hint, hint…hahaha

1. Really this item is self explanatory, however my thought of late, is that there are some items, like stuffed animals, that are really better displayed and stored out in the open.

2. Nesting Cloud Decals

3. This is a tree wall decal, and can also be done with paint and even a singular color on an open wall. This can be used as an example and doesn’t need to be perfect. A light shade of gray or a grayish brown would be amazing.

4. I love the idea of these shelves for displaying and storing books. I plan to get a few of these for my Mr. Blakey (yes that is his name…sort of…)

5. I love this mobile, but it does happen to be birds. It would go well with fish but she could use it as a guide and create her own with fishy hanging objects instead.

6. A variety of these would add visual interest as well as functionality to any room.

7. This nightlight is just simply fab! I have this and Blake absolutely LOVES it! He likes to carry it around and sleep with it. It is budget friendly, uses regular easily purchased batteries and the color is amazing!

8. Cutest little orange mod circle swaddlers.

9. Alphabet Bedding set or quilt/comforter. Would be a great addition to the items she has already planned to make or a nice substitute (the best laid plans….am I right? Baby changes everything and really messes up your time frames!)

10. Disguising fabric on a chair, if you don’t love it, can easily be done by adding a simple throw over the back and some pillows. If you try and get fancy by draping the throw and all that other cutesy stuff, it will look like you are disguising something and not doing a very good job. My suggestion is to keep it simple. Reupholster, slipcover or just pile on the goodies!

11. This sleep positioner is not something tha tis 100% necessary for everyone to have, but since she will be refinishing her crib, it might be a nice solution until she is finished with that project.

12. This set of 2 would allow her to use one in another room (her own or one of her older boys). I love the idea that it is natural material but has a lining that might possibly be taken out and carried to the laundry room!

13. She wanted to make this room something that expressed her family’s heritage. Living in Alaska, while I don’t know a ton about the environment, something about this cute little Moosey just struck a chord for me. Plus the color is fabulous and its a great way to hang cute baby blankets or coats and hats.

14. I have provided several options for rugs. I personally like the idea of layering rugs in a room. Not necessarily on top of one another just by mixing and matching them. One can be textural one soft and cushy both will still go together well. Striped Rug

15. Wooden toys are all the rage, and after seeing this amazing Baby Gym at Ikea along with the amazing price tag…I’m sold!

16. Little Tree Bedding Set. Can be purcahsed as a whole, individually, or can be used as inspiration for the fabrics she has and how to arrange them. I particularly love the coordinating artwork shown, which she may be able to create using left over scraps of fabric!

17. The textural rug. Need I say more…

18. An optional baby bumper that can be purchased on it’s own should she not care to make one or purchase on in a set with other bedding pieces.

Design

Mood Board: The Playroom Is Taking Over

05.14.10
Project Image

For those of you with children, this is an awfully familiar scenario, is it not? It is often times difficult to know what to do with a playroom that is in the direct line of site from the main living areas of the house. Not only does it need to function as a playroom that your children will actually enjoy, it also has to “appear” adult friendly…at least visually.

As you can see from the pictures below, this amazing playroom has fabulous windows and should function fairly well being within reach of the family room. Theoretically this should be a home run. But…kids are funny, and if a room isn’t something an adult would want to spend time in, chances are you will find your kids migrating away from the room as well.

This is precisely what happens in Allison’s home. Her kiddo’s rarely actually play in this room and most play dates become awkward with the adults ultimately ending up sitting on the floor.

Also as an Update: From the time I created this Mood Board and suggested she rehab Craigslist finds back in May of 2010… Allison has decided she in fact loves it, and now has her own site that focuses on exactly that! Yahoo… You can visit her here: Fab Rehab Creations!

You can see how this playroom is visible from the family room and as this last picture indicates… from the Dining Room as well (though you don’t actually know that is where we are standing until I mention it), what you can’t see is that is also directly visible from the moment you enter the front door.

It’s pretty tough to decide on how to set this room up, I mean it isn’t a typical room in your home and yet it is just as visible as if it were. Special considerations need to be take into account… One thing is certain, we need to make this room more desirable for those kiddo’s…as it stands now, only the dog is enjoying it 🙁

But before I get into the details please know that while it appears this room has a beautiful feminine charm about it, I assure you that once we break it down a bit, you will see it actually does not. My inspiration pictures have some feminine seeming pillows in it, and the version I would like for her is a little less feminine and more focused on nature.

Here are the Deets:

1. This picture from West Elm started my inspiration for this project. What I am most loving about it is the mix of the natural wood with simple graphic printed pillows in white, beige, gray and green. I think this color combo mixed with black furniture will be amazing in this space and not conflict with her family room color scheme. Because this is a playroom it will naturally be filled with toys of various colors so that is important to keep in mind when designing. A color scheme needs to be chosen that will work well with spot of cobalt blue, red and grass green. This will be fine under that assumption. In fact it will thrive as such!

2. I would love to see this room be a light to medium shade of green with some yellow undertones. It should be a nice compliment to the colors in both her family room and dining room and will be calming and natural feeling in the playroom.

Some possibilities for paint are:

Behr – Celery Bunch or Key Lime

Glidden – Celery Sticks, or Spring Cactus (this one is probably my fav for this project)

3. I love this drift wood hanging object, but I am completely convinced that this would be a really fun project to do with the kiddo’s. It doesn’t have to be drift wood either, this would be fabulous with random widths of branches. I imagine they would love to help Allison collect sticks! What boys don’t love sticks…

She could use a teeny tiny drill bit to pierce each stick and stack them on some extra thick fishing line or nylon string. Think jewelry making supplies or hardware supplies for this…It will bring a fabulous natural element to the room. The more they collect the more stick lines they can produce in varying lengths.

To attach to the ceiling she can purchase a small bag of hooks that screw in. See my chandelier hanging escape for the type of hooks I refer to. She should either spray them white to match the ceiling or purchase them in white so they blend in and appear seamless. She can nang them in a line or in a grouping like a crystal hanging chandelier.

4. I think 2 of these pendant lights from West Elm would be amazing on either side of the over sized chair in the window area, or on either side of the daybed.  Pendant lights are a much safer option with small children, but of course wrapping a cord is fine as well.  A set of 2 is $179 so not cheap, but consider that she doesnt’ have to buy any furniture and only the supplies to build with, this room will come together for next to nothing!

5. She has 2 bookshelves which I have suggest she paint black to tie together and unify the room.

6. She already owns the cutest little wooden table and chairs sized for kids, and she can either paint it black to match the furniture or she can leave it as is ( a honey colored stain) and it will compliment nicely.

7. This is her play table and I suggest she leave it white to bring some brightness to the room, she could also paint it black if she prefers that.

8. I think a collection of chalkboards or cork boards would be fabulous in here to display artwork or to color on for her kiddos. the colors of both chalk boards and cork boards would be perfect in this room. you can purchase cork boards fairly inexpensively, in fact I recently purchased a couple from my local dollar store.

9. This artwork is super cute from West Elm and can absolutely be purchased, but I think it could also be tackled by printing a clip art image made white on gray paper so easily…I mean really easily…I also think that in addition to printing out clip art and framing it, she could find plants and leaves from the yard (or her neighbors) and print using the same technique in this tutorial: Garden Party Printed Pillows She would just need gray and white paper and white white and beige paint.  She can use the white paint on the gray paper and the beige paint on the white paper and place them in black frames and it would be quite fab!

10. This represents a chair she already has that I would love for her to move up to this playroom and center in the bay window area. What a fabulous reading chair it would be for herself and a kiddo or 2 (kids love to squish)

11. These prints can either be just that, prints or this is really an interesting idea for the chalkboards. If she simply painted 2 plywood boards after sanding them well, with chalkboard paint and the attached picture hanging apparatuses on the back, it would be simple and yet make a statement. Two of these long and narrow would be amazing on the short wall to the left of the bay window.

12. This rug can be found at West Elm and would really bring the room together if placed under the daybed.  It would help draw the eye to something pleasant and amazing from the font door view.  Any rug of a decent size and with a natural feeling to it would work well here and the discount stores should definitely be checked along with resources such as Craigslist.

13. This daybed represents any daybed with a wooden frame. I will be posting plans for a simple and graphic daybed this week (can be found here). She can also search places like Craigslist for options that are reasonably priced and simply paint them black.

I would love for her to create similar pillows as are seen here for both the day bed and the chair.  By purchasing solid fabrics and creating a pillow cover then printing on the fabric in the same manner as in this tutorial would be fabulous…

14. These window treatments are from West Elm but could be very easily made from fabric with this tutorial or even more easily by purchasing a charcoal gray panel from Target, Walmart if they have one or a discount store such as TJ Maxx or homegoods…

I hope I haven’t forgotten anything…but if you notice I have, let me know..my mind is very busy and tired today..hahah  I guess we are all entitled to a bit of crazy now and then, no?

Plans

Free Woodworking Plans to Build a 2×2 Full Sized One Armed Daybed

05.13.10
Project Image

This piece speaks for itself but just in case it doesn’t…it’s a modification of the popular 2×2 One-Armed Daybed.  This plan allows for a standard Full Sized Mattress and I have to say, I am really liking the way it looks!  I was not sure how it would turn out aesthetically until I actually sat down to modify the plans…and I am smitten with it! This Daybed will fit a Standard Full Sized Mattress of 54×75″, so unless you desire to…no special sewing is required.

Estimated Cost

Under $25

Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Sander
  • Drill
  • Saw – something to make straight cuts, nothing fancy
  • **Kreg Jig – optional but will allow for easier attachments and a more professional appearance, not to mention it makes the building process, quite a bit easier. I recommend this…
Lumber
  • 2 – 2×3 at 6′
  • 1 – 2×3 at 8′
  • 4 – 2×3 at 10′
  • 1 – 2×2 at 6′
  • 5 – 1×3 at 10′
  • 1 – 1×3 at 6′
  • 2 – 1×2 at 8′
Materials
  • ** Kreg Owners – 2 1/2″ PHScrews
  • 3″ Screws
  • 2 1/2″ Screws
  • 1 1/4″ Screws
  • Wood Glue
  • Wood Filler
  • Sanding Supplies
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 2×3 at 6 1/2″ (Right hand Legs)
  • 3 – 2×3 at 25 1/2″ (Left hand Legs and Center Leg)
  • 2 – 2×3 at 75 1/2″ (Front and Back Rails)
  • 4 – 2×3 at 50″ (Stretchers)
  • 2 – 1×2 at 75 1/2″ (Cleats)
  • 2 – 1×3 at 54 1/2″ (End Aprons)
  • 9 – 1×3 at 51 1/2″ (Slats)
  • 1 – 2×3 at 72″ (Front Apron)
  • 1 – 2×3 at 29 1/2″ (Back Apron)
  • 1 – 2×3 at 40″ (Back Apron)
  • 1 – 2×3 at 56″ (Arm Rest)
  • 1 – 2×2 at 45″ (Back Rest)
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1
Step 1

Attach the Rails to the inside of the Legs: Leave 3/4″ Space at either end and use 2 1/2″ Screws and Wood Glue. If you plan to take this apart, skip the glue. You can also use carriage bolts for this by drilling all the way through the rail and leg with an appropriately sized drill bit for the carriage bolt. The top of the Frame Rails should be flush with the top of the Shorter Legs and 6 1/2″ from the bottom of the taller legs.

Step 2
Step 2

Attach the Stretchers to the Cleats: Use your Kreg Jig on a 1 1/2″ setting and place Pocket holes on the inside of the Stretchers. If you aren’t using a Kreg Jig, use 3″ Screws from the outside of the cleat into the stretchers. THEN Attach the Cleats to the Rails: Use 2″ Screws and Wood Glue.

Step 3
Step 3

Attach the End Aprons: Use 2″ Screws and Wood Glue and fasten into the rails, cleats and stretchers. If you are using a Kreg Jig, you can also fasten the End Aprons to the Legs.

Step 4
Step 4

Lay the Slats approximately 6″ Apart and screw in place using 1 1/4″ Screws. Do not glue the slats if you plan to remove them at any point.

Step 5
Step 5

Attach the Back Rest (Green), then attach the Arm Rest (Red). Place Pocket Holes as indicated in the diagram below. If you aren’t using a Kreg Jig, use 3″ Screws and Wood Glue. Then attach the Front and Back Aprons: Use 2″ Screws and Wood Glue.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Plans

Free Woodworking Plans to Build a Modern Classic Pergola

05.10.10

Well, I will tell you all that I wasn’t sure I could create something beautiful and keep it budget friendly for this particular type of outdoor structure. I clearly didn’t have enough faith in myself because now that I am finished, I feel a bit like superwoman! Witness and observe…know that this is actually very budget friendly and affordable.

$200-$300

  • 4 – 6×6 Posts at either 8′ or 10′ according to your preference
  • 4 – 2×8 at 8′
  • 2 – 2×8 at 10′
  • 2 – 2×4 at 8′
  • 5 – 2×4 at 10′
  • 4 – 1×2 at 10′
  • 1 – 1×3 at 10′
  • 1 – 1×8 at 10′
  • Note: This cut list will change if you alter your method for installing and change the dimensions. If you need help calculating any of your new dimensions, feel free to send me an email and I can help walk you through it.
  • 4 – 6×6 Posts at 8′ if you prefer 10′ height, this will change as an exact measurement if you install as outlined below. If you are planning on cementing the post directly into the ground, you will need to allow for that added length.
  • 4 – 2×8 at 96″ (Double Beams)
  • 2 – 2×8 at 99″ (Single Beams)
  • 2 – 2×4 at 96″ (Cross Beams)
  • 5 – 2×4 at 108 1/2″ (Rafters) you can allow this to have a greater overhang and/or cut into a decorative pattern on the ends if you like. I have designed this with a 4″ Overhang
  • 2 – 1×2 at 99″ (Frame Trim)
  • 2 – 1×2 at 100 1/2″ (Upper Trim) – **if you prefer to miter the corners you will actually need 4 at this length.
  • 8 – 1×3 at 7″ (Upper Post Trim) – if you prefer to miter the corners you will need 16 at this length.
  • 8 – 1×3 at 5 1/2″ (Upper Post Trim)
  • 8 – 1×8 at 7″ (Lower Post Trim) – if you prefer to miter the corners you will need 16 at this length
  • 8 – 1×8 at 5 1/2″ (Lower Post Trim)

// ** You will want to pre-drill and then pre-finish for the most optimal outdoor use and a more water tight seal for each board. Choose wood appropriate for outdoor use if possible to ensure a greater lifetime for this structure. This would include Cedar and Redwood. Check with your local lumber supply for additional options available for your area.

**For installation of this structure I am going to refer you to an article on another site. I think it does a fabulous job of explaining the different options available. I will include one additional option for installation that the article doesn’t include, but
is a very viable option (maybe one of the better options if you will be installing into the ground rather than attaching to a patio or deck) and recommended by several sites including This Old House (Love this program…)

**I would like to call to your attention the fact that you may need to check with your county before building to ensure you don’t need a permit. Some counties are very strict regarding anything that can be construed as a structure in, near or around your home. The Building Department can help you determine an appropriate distance from your home as well as an appropriate level to bury your posts. You will want to secure them just below the frost line if you live in a locale that has freezing temps at any point. Be safe and be sure so that you don’t pay the price later. Trust me it isn’t worth it.

**For those of you who need to consider seismic activity, there is special hardware for hanging your beams, that you can purchase to ensure your safety in the event of an earthquake.

** You can customize the outside edges of the rafters on this project by carving out a design with a jig saw. I chose to leave that off of this plan for ease of building and design purposes. I will likely provide a later plan that will include this.

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Setting or fixing your posts:

1. Dig your footing holes:

Dig each footing hole about 18-inches-wide and 24-inches-deep, or to the frost line, whichever depth is greater. Fill each hole with concrete, then insert a 48-inch-long piece of 1 ½-inch-diameter galvanized-metal pipe. (The pipe has an outside diameter of 1 ½ inches) Leave 24 inches of pipe sticking up from the middle of the footing. Allow the concrete to cure at least 24 hours. Next, use a long, 1 ½-inch-diameter auger bit or spade bit to bore a center hole into the bottom end of a post.Dig your footing hole to approximately

2. Treat and lift the post:

Treat the end of the post with wood preservative. Then lift up the post and have a helper align the center hole with the pipe. Slowly lower the post over the pipe until it sits on the concrete footing. Do the same for the remaining five posts. Check to be sure that each post is perfectly plumb; if necessary, drive a cedar-shingle shim underneath to align it.

Article for additional methods of building and securing your posts: How to Build a Pergola

Image of the different options explained: click on the link above and scroll down for information on these methods.

Set your Posts into the ground in your desired manner. For those of you working over a patio you will install the posts with the hardware required and make sure each post is plumb and square to all of the other posts. I have designed this to be at an 8′ height and width for cost, however you are welcome to increase this height and the overall dimensions as desired for your space. If you go beyond the 10′ mark, consider adding a third pair of posts to increase the strength and stability of your structure.

Build the Frame of the structure: Attach the beams with Screws, then drill for bolts and secure using 9″ Carriage Bolts on the sides that have double beams. Go through the beams and the post, slip on a washer and nut on the inside of the inner beam or post and tighten. For the side that has only one beam, use 8″ Bolts. Offset them at a diagonal on every board to avoid wood weakening. The frame should be constructed as shown below.

This image shows the manner we will attach the beams in example C: and in the right hand example in the image just below that. Only you will be offsetting your bolts which these images don’t show.

Attach the Cross Beams: Use 4″ Galvanized Deck Screws.

Fasten the Upper Trim to the Frame. You can choose to Miter the corners, if you like, for a more finished appearance. I did not do so in this example and believe it still looks amazing. I wanted to keep this simple with no special tools required but this is subjective and you can choose your preference. Secure with 2″ Galvanized Deck Screws.

Attach the Rafters: Use 3″ Galvanized Deck Screws, pre-drill at an angle down through the side, then bottom of the rafter, and into the beams. Fasten the first screw on one side then the next screw from the other side, and so on, so that it is well balanced and supported on both sides.

Trim out your posts up at the top under the beams and at the bottom covering your hardware or for decorative purposes. Use the 3″ Screws since you have them, not because it is necessary. If you prefer, you can purchase the more appropriate 2 1/2″Galvanized Finish Nails or use a 2″ Screw. Since this project is about being efficient and budget friendly I am giving you permission for overkill because it is easier that way. Again you can choose to miter the corners for a more finished appearance but this is optional.

Upper Trim:

Fill any screw holes, sand, and finish or seal as desired if you didn’t do so up front.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Image Source: the few images included in addition to my own drawings, are from the site I have provided a link to above, for installation methods.

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Design

Traditional Themed Dining Area with a Modern Twist

04.26.10
Project Image

This Mood Board will focus on all things Traditional, with a modern twist of course…I mean, this is the year 2011! What would we be if not modern, with a tinge of the past… of course!

Today I used items from Ballard Designs, Z Gallerie, and Ikea.  Each item is available for purchase (click on each link for pricing info) and throughout the month we will focus on how to achieve this Look 4 Less!

Behr Paint Color – Celery Sprig

Burlap Bordered Document Panels – Ballard Designs – $69-$89

Trellis Wall Paper – Ballard Designs – $119 Double Roll – or – Trellis Stencil

Cafe Shelving – Ballard Designs – $79-$139

Stockholm Rand Rug – Ikea – $299 for 8’x11′

Coventry 3 Piece Corner Bench – Ballard Designs – $799-$2015

Sonoma Dining Table – Z Gallerie – $699

Robertson Slip Covered Dining Chair – Z Gallerie – $299

Ballard Basic Pillow with Insert – Ballard Designs – $22

Belgard Cabinet – Ballard Designs – $899

Silhouette Boxes Assorted Set of 5 – Ballard Designs – $19.99 on sale

Cote d’Ivoire Table Lamp – Ballard Designs – $79

Forest Green Print – Ballard Designs – $229

Design / DIY

DIY Garden Pillow Project

03.14.10
Project Image

This is a project anyone can do!  Sandy from Mi So Happi has been kind enough to share her amazing talents with us, by walking us through the steps…thanks Sandy! Please visit her shop to see her wares, you will be glad you did!

If you aren’t an experienced seamstress, or sewing isn’t your thing, you can modify this project to be a no sew pillow with pretty applique.  Just use Fabri-Tac or another such fabric adhesive and simply glue along the lines where you would normally sew (you will probably have to skip the button though, if you go this route, but no worries, it will still be fabulous).

What you will need to complete this project:

1. 2 contrasting but complementary fabric choices. See exact measurements and layout below (cut measurements add up to 21″x63″ for main pillow fabric and 6.5″x6.5″ for contrasting applique portion).

2. Fabric paint that is appropriate for your choice of the ‘applique’ portion of your fabric.

3. Plant sprigs: rosemary would be nice, or any stem from a shrub with a few leaves. Just look around for something with enough of a surface to apply paint. Get creative here!

4. Embroidery floss and needle, for creating a contrasting stitch, around the outside of applique. Sandy has chosen a beautiful red which looks wonderful and stands out against the linen backdrop and misty green leaf sprig prints.

5. Sewing machine and thread in a similar color to your main pillow fabric or Fabri-Tac (or any other brand of no sew glue).

Here are the directions for the applique portion of this project:

1. Begin by finding leaf or stem plant cuttings you enjoy and that have a nice surface for printing.

2. Cut out the fabric for the applique portion of the pillow (see below for measurements).

3. Prepare your paint, either by readying the color you plan to use, or mixing colors to achieve your desired result. Sandy mixed royal blue, yellow and white to get to this beautiful Misty Green color. I just love it (and just realized it matches the color of my title perfectly, yay)! Remember to use fabric paint that is appropriate for the fabric you have chosen.

4. Coat one side of your leaf sprigs. Make sure you have adequate paint on your sprig to transfer the image onto your fabric. Don’t apply so much that it’s drippy or smears when you apply any pressure to your sprig (a little smearing is survivable, a lot will mar your image too much and not achieve the graphic result desired here). As you can see from the image below there is something quite charming about having the paint transfer be a bit spotty and imperfect, it gives it a weathered sort of feel. You might want to practice this step on a piece of paper a few times before going ahead with it on your fabric. Get the desired amount of paint and pressure determined beforehand.

5. Once you have your paint and pressure practiced and determined, go ahead and stamp your fabric. Using a few different sprigs in different lengths will give you a nice result.

6. Once you have finished these steps, you can move on to sewing (or gluing) the pillow while you allow the applique center to dry. The pattern for this pillow is below, click on the image to enlarge it.

This is what it should look like as you progress.

7. If you are choosing the no sew method of creating this pillow, use the Fabri-Tac to apply the center applique as well, then use your embroidery floss to create a running stitch either along the edge of your applique (to further attach it to your pillow) or just outside and adjacent to your applique (this is up to you, you can also skip this step altogether if you want a really quick finish). If you are using a machine for sewing your pillow, you will then run the embroidery floss along the outside of your applique by hand.

That’s it – so simple, anyone can do this regardless of your sewing experience. I hope you will all send me pictures of your version. I would love to see how you applied this to your own home decor.

Design / DIY / Home

Faux Butler Pantry

02.20.10
Project Image

I’m pretty sure this area between my downstairs bedroom (my new office craft space, you can see that transformation here, here, here, here, here, here, and here) and it’s associated bathroom is supposed to be a linen closet, but I can tell you that I don’t have anywhere near enough linens to fill this linen closet, along with the much smaller one upstairs, and another one in the bathroom for the kids. What I do seem to have a lot of, and no where near enough storage for, is my china, serving ware, and glassware. Wow…and this does not include my everyday dinnerware and glasses.

Enter stage left…linen closet turned butler pantry. I feel pretty clever to have thought of this, thank you very much! With the space above the bottom cabinet, I now also have room for all of the cocktail mix must-haves, and over sized wine and champagne bottles that don’t fit in my wine coolers. Make that 2 problems solved with one re-purposing of a cabinet.

Being frugal and smart with your space doesn’t just involve how much money you spend on something, it also means finding appropriate solutions for the things you already have and making good use of them. There is nothing frugal about wasted space. If you have an extra cabinet or shelf, even a piece of furniture without a real direction in life, think outside of the box and put it to good use. Any designer will tell you that having smart organization is crucial in good design.